650SS Regulator/Rectifier

Previously David Cooper wrote:

Surely.. Black regulator to terminal 13 same as original rectifier.

Thanks for the reply, David. The wiring diagram supplied with the new reg/rec shows black connected to the battery - as you say, it's obvious when you think about it, but I let myself get panicked. I was thinking that, since the regulator was now integrated and there were no external connections that I had to find somewhere for the old zener connections to go to. Waiting for some new connectors and will sort it out.

Thanks again!

Kevin

Previously Alan Osborn wrote:

Previously Kevin Bell wrote:

Hi, I'm hoping some electrickery wizard might be able to help me.

I've got a 1965 650SS and have just bought a solid-state combined regulator/rectifier - Lucas reg123L - to replace the fried 49072B rectifier and (no number) zener diode. The wiring diagram that came with the 123L shows the Green/Black and Green/Yellow wires from the alternator joined together and connected to one of the Yellow wires on the regulator, the Green/White from the alternator to the other Yellow on the regulator, Black regulator to battery negative and Red regulator to earth or battery positive. That is all fine, but how do I get the ammeter into the circuit? On the old system there was a Brown/Blue wire from battery negative to the horn, then on to the ammeter. Then Brown/White off the ammeter to the light switch, terminal 10 and out of the light switch, terminal 2, Brown/White to the Zener and then on to the old rectifier.

I imagine that the wiring from the battery, to the horn, to the ammeter, to the light switch would be the same, but I can't figure out where to connect the wire out of the light switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Kevin

Above is nearly correct, if you look at the BRN/WHT that goes from Ammeter to terminal 10 this is exactly the same as the 2, they are linked at the switch. A small improvement to this is to feed the new reg/rect (was wire to Zener and rectifier) directly to the Ammeter but NOT at the same place as the battery/horn wire.

The rule for Ammeters is this-the charge (reg/rect) and the dis-charge, light-switch (and ignition sw) connect together on one side of the Ammeter. The Battery is on the other side. The horn doesn't really matter nor the stop light as they are high current and intermittent.

If you would like to send me the Zener I might be able to tell you why it has failed.

The wire out of the light switch (BLU) feeds the dip switch, rear light BRN/GRN, and side light(RED/BLK).

Thank you Alan, that is really helpful. The failure of the zener may be related to the wiring burning out! Don't know what caused it, I was checking the timing with a timing light and, when I switched the engine off, the wiring instantly started smoking. Cue much frantic screwdrivering to get the battery disconnected (should have just cut the wire in retrospect, but it was pretty hairy at the time!). If you email your address, I'd love to know what might have happened.

Cheers,

Kevin

Previously Fritz Wettstein wrote:

Previously Kevin Bell wrote:

If you email your addressâ?

This's the website of Al Osborne: http://www.aoservices.co.uk/ Fritz

Thanks Fritz!