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650SS Ignition Timing

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Can anyone help, please? I'm trying to find out how many mm BTDC I need to set my engine to get the timing right. I don't want to take the primary chaincase off (again!) as I have just managed to stop it leaking. I've fitted a Pazon electronic ignition and have locked the auto advance bob-weight. I've looked on 'tinernet and checked here, but have ended up confused. Is there a definitive measurement for setting the ignition? I'm tending towards 8.69mm (which i found on here) but I would be grateful if anyone could confirm this.

Cheers,

Kevin

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Hi Kevin, the accepted method of setting up electronic ignition is to use a degree disc and strobe or a strobe and marks on alternator ,which means taking off the primary unless you have modified the primary cover with a rubber plug to access marks on the Alternator . However I do niether , If my ignition is a little too far advanced I get a slight kickback on starting so I just back off a fraction, also by carefull observation of the spark plug earth electrode colouring I can see the timing is right. This takes some practise and research. If you use points in a coil ignition system (I do with a Pazon/boyer electronic points assist unit) you can still use the piston distance BTDC method which is not particularly accurate.I also use small adjustments in the points gap to fine tune.I don't see how you can use the piston measurement if you have no way to fully advance the ignition.You can only time it roughly at the static position.

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Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Hi Kevin, the accepted method of setting up electronic ignition is to use a degree disc and strobe or a strobe and marks on alternator ,which means taking off the primary unless you have modified the primary cover with a rubber plug to access marks on the Alternator . However I do niether , If my ignition is a little too far advanced I get a slight kickback on starting so I just back off a fraction, also by carefull observation of the spark plug earth electrode colouring I can see the timing is right. This takes some practise and research. If you use points in a coil ignition system (I do with a Pazon/boyer electronic points assist unit) you can still use the piston distance BTDC method which is not particularly accurate.I also use small adjustments in the points gap to fine tune.I don't see how you can use the piston measurement if you have no way to fully advance the ignition.You can only time it roughly at the static position.

Thanks Robert. I am in the process of fitting a Pazon unit and agree that a timing disc is the best option. As I mentioned earlier, I'm reluctant to remove the primary chaincase now that I've got it leak-free, but I might just have to bite the bullet and disturb it. I've locked the auto advance weights, as per the Pazon instructions but now need to set the engine to the fully advanced position to line up the Pazon pickup.

Kevin

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Sounds like you have the later points housing behind the engine. Similar to our 67 Atlas (fitted with Boyer) .I hope you have a better advance curve ,I would aim for one with full advance by about 3000 rpm ,but you may not have that option.

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The plug angle means it's complicated. I once prepared a complicated spreadsheet to work out the apparent piston drop for a range of timing angles - but then found I couldn't measure the plug angle properly anyway. I never used it - I paint timing marks in my alternator rotor and use that to set it.

For what it's worth:

IF the plug angle is 30 degrees from vertical, then 30 degrees BTDC is just under 7mm piston drop.

I think piston drop is perfectly accurate enough for old low compression singles - especially if they have a lever to make adjustments - but probably not on a relatively high compression twin. Half a millimetre error is (by my calculations) about 1 full degree. So it could be a good start ...

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The piston position is awkward but the real issue is determining when the spark occurs with EI as the reference given is only approximate.There is no substitute for a strobe for accuracy

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Previously robert_tuck wrote:

The piston position is awkward but the real issue is determining when the spark occurs with EI as the reference given is only approximate.There is no substitute for a strobe for accuracy

Looks like a trip to the motor accessory shop is called for!

Thanks for your input Robert.

BTW, I have the Pazon Smart Fire system and it shows the ignition is fully advanced at 3000 rpm. It also has a static timing LED, which should make setting a bit more accurate.

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Sounds like a well thought out product ,what Lucas unit is it fitted into?. Does the unit have its own electronic advance? if so you wont need a centrifugal unit .

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Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Sounds like a well thought out product ,what Lucas unit is it fitted into?. Does the unit have its own electronic advance? if so you wont need a centrifugal unit .

I think it is well thought out, Robert. The company was started by one of the Boyer Bransden electronics guys who wanted to make a better product. The website is here: http://www.pazon.com/ignition-system/smart-fire-pre-unit-twin . It has a magneto replacement, so the K2F comes off completely. You can do away with the auto advance unit by buying a 'plain' sprocket, or, as I did, you can immobilise the bob weights. I drilled and tapped each weight and put a screw in to stop them from flinging out.

I'm now waiting for some gaskets to put the timing case and oil pipes back on, and then I'm looking forward to powerful, consistent sparks. As a bonus, I can set a rev limit for those times you might get carried away! :D

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Previously Kevin Bell wrote:

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Sounds like a well thought out product ,what Lucas unit is it fitted into?. Does the unit have its own electronic advance? if so you wont need a centrifugal unit .

I think it is well thought out, Robert. The company was started by one of the Boyer Bransden electronics guys who wanted to make a better product. The website is here: http://www.pazon.com/ignition-system/smart-fire-pre-unit-twin . It has a magneto replacement, so the K2F comes off completely. You can do away with the auto advance unit by buying a 'plain' sprocket, or, as I did, you can immobilise the bob weights. I drilled and tapped each weight and put a screw in to stop them from flinging out.

I'm now waiting for some gaskets to put the timing case and oil pipes back on, and then I'm looking forward to powerful, consistent sparks. As a bonus, I can set a rev limit for those times you might get carried away! :D

UPDATE: I fitted a timing disc to the camshaft (so no need to disturb the primary chaincase!) and timed the engine to 15 degrees BTDC (half of 30 degreees), and measured the piston drop. The way that I did it, with a vertical stick down the plug hole, gave me 10mm. I realise this won't be the same for everyone else, but it means that I now have an accurate measurement for the next time i need to set the timing without taking any covers/cases off. Result!

Setting the static timing with the Pazon trigger unit was a doddle, turn the plate clockwise until the LED comes on, then back it off until the LED just goes out.

I just have to wait for the new gaskets to get the timing cover back on and I can try my sparkly new ignition system. :D

 


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