1972 disc brake

The sleeved down master cylinder will improve things quite nicely but the limiting factor is the front caliper. The pads are just too small. Again a braided brake pipe may give some small imrovement but you are now straying away from originality.

I too have just acquired a 1972 Commando so I am interested in this as well. In contrast my bike has been fitted with a German (argh!) Magura master cylinder and grip, and braided tubing. This hasn't exactly turned it into a "brick wall" stopper, so I was thinking about other pads? Like with drum brakes you can fit a more agressive lining material. Is this possible with the Commando disc pads?

The only period caliper mod is the Lockheed racing item. I believe that these are back in production (the expensive original handed type, not the later universal casting) Even then, you'll need an adapter plate or a Norvil fork leg.

Master cylinder improvements will help. I have a Lockheed Racing item with a standard caliper and Ferodo 'Platinum' pads. However, the standard caliper can be seen to flex a little under hard static application. The through-bolted racing caliper doesn't do this.

I'm quite happy with the braking of mine under sensible conditions.

The standard Commando had the same front brake caliper and disc throughout all the disc braked models. If you fit sintered pads (if you can find them) you will suffer from accelerated wear of the disc. If you want to use the full performance of the Commando, and have done the master cylinder mods, the next step is either a Lockheed or Grimeca caliper. The original caliper is just not up to the job for todays driving conditions. That is purely my opinion.

Converting my 71 Commando to acceptable disc, from TLS drum, cost me about twice what I paid for the bike in 1975 (£350). Fork sliders, disc, caliper, master cylinder, pipe, mounting plate, wheel and some of those parts were second hand. It does stop well now.

I converted the rear brake to twin leading shoe hydraulic from a leyland mini and that works properly now as well.

I see BritBike in the US do lightened and drilled disks. Any experiences with these anyone?

Previously wrote:

The standard Commando had the same front brake caliper and disc throughout all the disc braked models. If you fit sintered pads (if you can find them) you will suffer from accelerated wear of the disc. If you want to use the full performance of the Commando, and have done the master cylinder mods, the next step is either a Lockheed or Grimeca caliper. The original caliper is just not up to the job for todays driving conditions. That is purely my opinion.

Converting my 71 Commando to acceptable disc, from TLS drum, cost me about twice what I paid for the bike in 1975 (£350). Fork sliders, disc, caliper, master cylinder, pipe, mounting plate, wheel and some of those parts were second hand. It does stop well now.

I converted the rear brake to twin leading shoe hydraulic from a leyland mini and that works properly now as well.

Hi Dave, I`m interested to know how you adapted the leyland mini brake to fit on the commando`s rear brake, sounds like a great piece of innovation.

Chris

Previously wrote:

richard,

when you say:

"The only period caliper mod is the Lockheed racing item. I believe that these are back in production (the expensive original handed type, not the later universal casting)"

Can u add details (or a link) with the difference between a standard one and the through-bolted one? not sure what you mean.

is it one of those displayed here?

http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk/items.asp?category=38&name=Brake%20System%20Components

Other question, can I use the Lockheed on the stock disk or do I need a 12 inches?

I'm thinking about getting the original MC sleeved by RGM, rather than buying the upgrade kit by Andover. is that all right, or as mentioned on Andover site it is not safe to sleeve stock MC?

thanks a lot guys.

I have the RGM conversion. It has been troublefree for 5 years and 17,000 miles. Andover claim that the sleeve can slip and block ports I believe. I guess it is possible but have not heard of this happening unless Andover know different. I also have a drilled disc which removes 3/4lb or 340gr. It works well but would be better with an 11mm bore master which gives the right balance of feel and lever travel. With the 13mm RGM cylinder it still requires a good strong hand but is no where as wooden as the standard 5/8" (16mm) Lockheed.

Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

The standard Commando had the same front brake caliper and disc throughout all the disc braked models. If you fit sintered pads (if you can find them) you will suffer from accelerated wear of the disc. If you want to use the full performance of the Commando, and have done the master cylinder mods, the next step is either a Lockheed or Grimeca caliper. The original caliper is just not up to the job for todays driving conditions. That is purely my opinion.

Converting my 71 Commando to acceptable disc, from TLS drum, cost me about twice what I paid for the bike in 1975 (£350). Fork sliders, disc, caliper, master cylinder, pipe, mounting plate, wheel and some of those parts were second hand. It does stop well now.

I converted the rear brake to twin leading shoe hydraulic from a leyland mini and that works properly now as well.

Hi Dave, I`m interested to know how you adapted the leyland mini brake to fit on the commando`s rear brake, sounds like a great piece of innovation.

Chris

Hi Chris, I used a standard mini RH twin leading shoe back plate and turned a spacer and welded it in the large centre hole. The mini shoes need slimming down to clear the drum and the shoes can be seen as they bear on the whole surface of the drum. A socket head screw forms the torque peg and the plate needs to be relieved to clear the swinging arm where the LH side of the swinging arm tapers in. With a little care, these last two positions can result in good access to the brake shoe adjusters. My master cylinder is off a triumph herald 5/8" bore I think but you could use a more modern grimeca type item and it would look quite neat. I did it originally because the cable operated rear brake on rearsets with a short lever was about as much use as a chocolate fireguard. It's been on there for about 25 years. The MOT testers never say anything. Very few of them know what they are looking at anyway. ( Interesting tale, failed the MOT two years ago for no rear brake light. took it away, couldn't find anything wrong, took it back for a retest and had to point out to the tester that the brake is on the left. Hence no brake light when operating the gear change. Knob)