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1960 Model 88 ignition timing

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Hello All

New member on here and this is my first post Ihave a Model 88 I am restoring and things have been going well I am at the stage of firing the engine for the first time in 30 years after a rebuild but must be setting the timing wrong I am following a Haynes manual the rotor arm points to 6oclock at TDC points set to 0.015 advance is 30 degreesAuto advance unit is set to full when setting points opening position and I am using a multi meter to see when points begin to open. The bike is sparkingand taking petrol I am using Champion N5C plugs but all to no avail there is a bit of kickback sometimes and the 18d2 has been refurbished recently. Any advice, tips, or general knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Brian

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Have you tried swapping the HT leads over. It is so easy to have them connected to the wrong plug at the first attempt........don't ask how I know this.

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Previously michael_jobson wrote:

Have you tried swapping the HT leads over. It is so easy to have them connected to the wrong plug at the first attempt........don't ask how I know this.

Thanks Michael its been a bit like swap shop after every couple of kicks change the leads over check the plugs check the points gap check the rotor points to six at Tdc its something very simple that I cant crack

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Brian. You seem to have done everything right so far, I can only suggest you double check your camshaft timings, I,m not familiar with Haynes manuals on the Norton but I have heard of some glaring errors !

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Previously brian_weightman wrote:

Hello All

New member on here and this is my first post Ihave a Model 88 I am restoring and things have been going well I am at the stage of firing the engine for the first time in 30 years after a rebuild but must be setting the timing wrong I am following a Haynes manual the rotor arm points to 6oclock at TDC points set to 0.015 advance is 30 degreesAuto advance unit is set to full when setting points opening position and I am using a multi meter to see when points begin to open. The bike is sparkingand taking petrol I am using Champion N5C plugs but all to no avail there is a bit of kickback sometimes and the 18d2 has been refurbished recently. Any advice, tips, or general knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Brian

Hi Brian, very frustrating, I had a 1960 99 in 1963 and had problems with a similar fault, which I cured by fitting a new condenser, which solved the problem for a few months, until the same fault reappeared.

Solved by fitting a magneto!Terry

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They don't kickback if timing is ok, so thats a possibility. Take the distributor cap off ,turn the motor up to compression take the coil ht lead out of the cap and hold the end of the lead close to the engine and flick the points open with your finger, should get a good spark with EVERY flick. Toss away any old plug caps and fit ngk ones. If the dissy cap is old check the metal under the brush and in the lead holes. The brush spring sometimes catches and does not reach the contact.

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Thanks for the replies Gents. The distributor cap is new as are the plugs, plug caps (Champion 10k ohms), HT leads, Points etc and the distributor was stripped and rebuilt by the Distributor Doctor. Back to the drawing board this weekend I think

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The important thing is to be logical and methodical ( before you loose your rag!). If fuel is getting through the plugs will usually get wet after a while . If the coil is sparking follow the spark bit by bit through the system. The plug caps and dissy cap are possibly poor pattern and the rotor arm can short the ht straight down the shaft to earth( very hard to spot!).Witchcraft is also a possibility ,how does the wife view your passion for the bike??.

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It is very easy to reinstall the distributor with the rotor arm out by 180 deg . ( done it myself). Check that the plug lead fed by the rotor arm when at 6 'clock is connected to the cylinder which has both valves closed. To do this, remove tank, remove rocker covers and check for clearance on the valves. Also check ignition timing at fully retarded is 6 deg. BTDC.

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When one is sure that it is the ignition, it is usually something else. A common oversight is the pushrods. Despite clearances being set, one or more is not engaged with its rocker. Make sure that all valves are opening and closing correctly.

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An easier way to check if you have the cylinder thats on compression is to just take the plug out and stick your thumb in the hole .

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Gents thanks again for the replies wont be losing my rag with it not the bikes fault probably mine, this is my first British restoration although I helped a mate with his model 7 so I know it can take a bit of fettling to start these bikes that have been lying idle for some time, have done Jap bikes in the past but I am enjoying this rebuild and I will get there as for the wife she's happy for me to have an interest I have ridden bikes for the 30 years we have been together and she likes coming to the local road races.

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Managed to get the engine firing and running still a bit of kickback so I assume timing is still out a bit but heading in the right direction. thanks for the advice.

Brian

 


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