1935 Model 50 oil pipes

Hi

I have a 1938 model 50 and both of the pipes are metal for the whole length and of the same diameter. The only difference on mine is that I have added an inline valve on the feed pipe as mine is prone to wet sump.

Please feel free to call. I'm not an expert but its very rare I get to meet an owner of a similar bike.

Gary

01394 448563

Andrew

If it is of any help, I have a genuine 1935 illustrated parts list, and all singles except International had solid metal oil pipes, with a larger diameter for the feed pipe. An original 'Motor Cycle' magazine with a road test of a 1936 ES2 also shows a larger feed pipe in one of the photos, although Gary's is obviously working well on a smaller pipe. If you don't need originality, the correctnitrile rubber pipe would do the job.

There is a good article in the July 2012 'Classic Bike' showing the right type of rubber tube to use, andalso a section on making upreplacement copperfuel & oil pipes, with info on suppliers as well.

If the 1935 sizes continued for 1936 (and I believe that they did), and if you decide to make up solid pipes as original, you will be faced by a larger fitting on the oil tank filter union than on the crankcase.

The original solid feed pipe was 3/8" OD and this was soldered into a shouldered nipple with a 1/2" OD at the oil tank. However, the crankcase fitting is identical to the 5/16" OD return side and therefore reguires an unusual nipple which solders inside the pipe. This allows the use of the same nut as the return line.

The 1/4"BSP fitting at the crankcase (and internal nipple in the feed line) are the most restrictive part so it probably wouldn't make any difference to the oil suppply if you used smaller bore pipe but there is no doubt that the larger pipe as original looks the part and a smaller pipe will leave you with a problem of which fittings to use at the oil tank.

Unfortunately, the internal nipples don't seem to be available from any of the modern suppliers so you'll either need access to a lathe or have to find an original pipe to dismantle.

The insertion of a length of flexible tube was a modification introduced on WD bikes so there was presumably a problem with fracturing under wartime conditions. However, if you're not going to be trialling then your parts probably don't need to be 'soldier-proof' to the same extent.

The originals that I've taken apart have only been soft-soldered and I've used this on my replacements without any problems but usual disclaimers, you need to satisfy yourself about any technique that you use....

If this isn't clear, shout and I'll take some photographs.