Dear Members,
I have had my completely standard 1960 wideline featherbed ES2 with AMC box (all original numbers) since 2010.
Recently I have noticed that the clutch action seemed to be getting a bit heavier and it has now become a bit of an issue with me. There is no problem with the clutch insofar that it functions OK does not drag nor slip - it just seems to be heavier in action and when going through town traffic the frequent use is a pain.
My 650SS with Venhill clutch cable is a dream in comparison.
Is there any easy method of lightening the action? Should I remove one single friction and plain plate or perhaps slacken off/reduce the compression on the 3 spring loaded screws on the pressure plate?
The handlebar lever has 7/8" centres between the cable nipple and fulcrum pin and the cable routing is as optimal as possible.
Any suggestions gratefully received.
Anthony Bolton
If you have looked at the…
- Log in to post comments
Found a couple of days ago.
Having same problem with the Manx. Fitted softest and shortest springs I had, helped a bit. RGM has two springs with different spring ratio. The 65lbs ones are close to the Dommie originals. Slackening the three nuts helps as long as the clutch don't slip. Slackening cable as much as possible as long as you can without dragging helps. Thinking of fitting a https://www.feked.com/universal-easy-pull-clutch-lightener-system-3-settings-for-leverage-ratio-adjustment.html could make life easier.
- Log in to post comments
Cable Capers
I am going with Robert on this heavy clutch issue. My money would be on the inner cable cutting its way into the metal of the outer. This causes a pinching action on the inner which then increases the load needed to move it. Possibly some of the inner cable strands have broken and are causing more friction through dragging
This generally happens at the tighter bends in the cable run such as by the headstock, under the tank and behind or under the oil tank.
The clutch actuator arm is another major cause of heavy lever action. The arm may no longer be aligned with the cable or does not have a full movement.
- Log in to post comments
HEAVY CLUTCH
Gentlemen,
Thanks for your collective responses.
I fitted a new cable yesterday and it was that that caused me to write the post because I saw no improvement. I am going to follow through with all the suggestions over the next few days (just ordered the softer springs from RGM) so will report back shortly.
Many thanks for the help.
Anthony Bolton
- Log in to post comments
Once I stopped working due…
Once I stopped working due to heath problems my grip strength vapourised. I have a grip exorciser that I could not operate even once .With regular use I can now shock young fit guys with a handshake and can pull my clutch with one finger. Use it or lose it.
- Log in to post comments
You mention..
.. a Venhill cable on the 650SS - do you have the same on the ES2? I make my own cables and use the Venhill lined outers and the clutch action on my 52 ES2 is very smooth and easy although of course has different actualtion mechanism to yours.
- Log in to post comments
HEAVY CLUTCH UPDATE
Gentlemen,
The plot has thickened yet clarified.
Pulled the clutch apart - all ok with a few minor burrs on the plates which have been appropriately rectified.
Pulled the operating rod out which easily rotated but the end was well burred over. Ordered new one plus ball from RGM.
Will update once parts delivered and fitted. Photo attached.
Anthony Bolton
- Log in to post comments
That looks..
.. as though it's been in constant contact and overheated. But if it rotates and came out easily enough I can't see that being your problem.
- Log in to post comments
HEAVY CLUTCH RECTIFIED
Gentlemen,
Very many thanks for all the advice. Received the relevant parts from RGM.
Took the outer gearbox cover off and it became immediately apparent as to what had gone wrong. The locking ring on the gearbox main shaft end securing the clutch withdrawal device had become loose resulting in a less than optimal angle for the operating lever at cable entry.
Tightened the lock ring at the correct angle for the operating arm, fitted the cable, new springs on the clutch outer pressure plate and adjusted all to give correct clearances.
Just back from a test run and bingo- all in order and quite light operation when changing gear.
Many thanks for all suggestions!
Anthony Bolton
- Log in to post comments
If you have looked at the obvious ( cable) then I would strip it down checking the pushrod is greased , spring boxes for notches on the outside faces,Notches on the hub , drum for too much wobble (allowing plates to drag on the inside of drum ) , correct pushrod adjustment and box lever in action and alignment. Springs only tightened as much as needed , Handlebar lever in an erganomic alignment with wrist . I now only use a thin silicon lube in nylon lined cables as oil can swell the lining .