Hi all, yet another question!
I checked the ignition timing on my 1950 ES2 today, and it is a little retarded. I guessed it was as it will only really start on full advance, and there is no signs of kick back at all. I am using the setting i found on here i think, 39 degrees BTDC on full advance? The points are only beginning to open at around 25 degrees BTDC, so i need to adjust it.
So, with the chain cover removed, I can see the mag is on a taper fit, is there a special puller for these as there isn't a lot of room to get behind the gear!
An odd thing, I removed the nut on the gear, but before i did i noticed the chain was a little slack, not overly, bit perhaps a smidgen more than should be. After the nut was removed (i did hope against hope that it may come off, but it didn't) I replaced the nut and tightened it. the chain went dead tight, almost like i had taken slack out, but i hadn't? I turned the engine through 720 degrees, just in case there was a tight spot, but no, it remained tight. Concerned i had done something wrong, i removed the nut again and inspected the gear and mag thread, it looked the same, spun the engine over, replaced the nut, and it feels slightly slack again!
Any thoughts??
Steve.
How did you hold the motor to retighten?
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Thanks Don, I was reading…
Thanks Don, I was reading through the ES2 tips book on here last night and realised that you can adjust that chain, which would explain why the chain appears to be tightening on its own!
and thanks for the photo of the puller, I have a small lathe and can make one of those..
I will look at this vernier sprocket you mentioned, if it works the way I am thinking it does then that will make the job a lot easier as you said. I am thinking it's a kind of sprocket you can easily adjust?
thanks again Don, I'll let you know how it goes!
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Do you block the chain or spray the sprockets? Maybe you are moving the mag in the platform? On the ES2 The mag platform rotates around a bolt rather than slide o. A face. So it wouldn't take much to rotate it a little. Check just how tight the three bolts are.
With regard to releasing the taper it is one of the most annoying jobs. If you have a split link in the chain you got a bonus. A standard sprocket puller tightened and whacked normally will release it.
if your chain is a continuous one it's a little harder and a bit crude. One of the legs of the. Sprocket puller needs to fit between the chain and the sprocket. To do this maximise the slack I. The chain and feed the leg in until you get it to a point that is 180 degrees to any of the open teeth of the sprocket. Then fit the second leg, tighten and attempt to pull
There is a tool that was used in the factory that wa I. The shape of a J in similar proportions to a tyre lever cranked at a point that sits over the mag shaft. Then you hit the handle and it pops. I made one but only worked when the sprocket had been removed recently. It's all quite delicate around there you have to be careful but it needs a bit of commitment to break that fit. Why it wasnt drilled and taped I don't know.
Picture of puller I use.