Being new to SV engines, can someone advise on the correct grease for the valve lubrication also how often, I have been told copper grease and at every start up but not confident. I am very aware that they get very hot and any grease that I have used has normally turned to oil and ran out within a short period of time. If I go out on a 30mile ride, should I stop every 5miles to grease the valves ?
As far as I'm concerned the cover is there to prevent me worrying too much. If I wanted to go high tech I'd suggest removing the valves and burnishing the stems with molybdenum disulphide and then using moly grease (just like the stuff in the CV joints of front wheel drive cars). But I use normal lithium grease when I remember to. Other opinions will no doubt exist.
The WD manual says once a week, but that would assume daily use.
In the military 'Maintenance and Instruction Manual', it is listed as a weekly task (along with most of the other grease nipples) using 'C600' grease. This was previously referred to as 'GS (General Service) Grease. The civilian handbook gives no clues.
Many owners of run-in bikes hardly grease at all. After difficulties with a rebuilt engine and going round in circles regarding the additive packages of modern greases (they contain more solids) and just how they react to the high temperatures of a side-valve, I gave up ! No current greases appear to be tested on sliding components at high temperature and subject to a regular shot of de-greaser (the fuel). Don't use a moly grease or graphite as they do pretty horrible things at high temperatures.
I now remove the grease nipples before a ride and pump the guides full of straight 40 oil from the Wesco can...I don't see that engine oil can 'hurt' and it might do some good.
Thank you both very much, maybe I was over thinking this to much. General grease at start up it is then.
Paul, I've misled you somewhat...and confused myself. By co-incidence, a thread has started on the WD motorcycle forum regarding the oil and grease grades.
In fact, C600 was not a grease but a 'Compounded Gear Oil'. This was a non-EP gear oil of 140 viscosity with a percentage of tallow; also known as 'Steam Cylinder Oil' They sound ideal for high temperature sliding components...Now I have to find out where they are available...
Another method to do this job is to utilise the crankcase breather from the driveside that comes out vertically behind the main bearing boss. Remove the curved metal pipe that is pointed at the gearbox sprocket and fit a flexible pipe around to the timing side and fit a "T" piece so you have 2 smaller pipes to fit on hollow nipples or pipe fittings into the guides. If you can do this, it's a fit and forget mod. You may have to vent this pipe via a second "T" piece. The only down side is that you need to lubricate the rear chain (just like a modern bike).
I have a garden railway...and the locos use steam oil...so I can fill an oil gun with it...thanks, RP!
Available from Roundhouse Engineering if you want to try it.