Is it possible to remove the engine leaving the gearbox in place ? If so, any hints for making this job as easy as possible ?
Some time ago there was a thread about ES2 engine install. Don't know if it is useful on twins.
No Mike you have to remove the lot see attachment .The easiest way is to remove all of the primary chain case outer and inner, and take the engine and gearbox out from the right hand side.Re fitting is the reverse. protect your frame with lengths of water pipe foam insulation
While its out check the centre stand ,you cannot remove it with the engine in.
99 -23 jpg Photo of mine when it was ready to go back in
hello if anything to go buy just read the manual the easy way is the lay the bike on its side without the tank on and all oil drained then is easy to un bolt and just lay the motor backward now you have removed the battery box and oil tank more space and how would you think us female manages on our own then, we tend to use our grey matter and work it our for our selfs some of you should try it some times it dose not hurt Yours anna J
Engine sprocket nut is easier to remove before taking out the engine, I'm told.
The engine sprocket itself can be the hardest job you may find. With a geniuine Norton 2 leg puller and a good whack it will usually break the taper. The puller is also usefull in pulling the mains roller inner off the crank.
If this is an 88/99 and you think its likely that stripdowns are going to be regular(!) you can slot the engine plates which will allow the motor to come out. Don't think a good idea on a rip snortin 750 , Our Atlas has not been a problem with this mod (yet).
Which particular holes need to be slotted please ?, to allow engine only removal,thanks in advance, jim hill.
Anna When you reply to posts on here your reply should be with information designed to help those people who are asking for help. They do not need to to be subjected to insulting or condescending remarks In other words ( Think first .Speak second )
I don't have the Atlas in My garage at present ,Not far away. Will get photo if poss. Can't remember if possible to slot plates with motor in situ!!.1 slot each side Front lower mount? Someone will know.
Hiyah - I ususally slot the lowest holes that take the 5/16 inch stud that fixes the engine plates to the engine in the bottom forward position. The cuts should be just off vertical facing a few degrees to the fore and as narrow as possible so that the stud just passes down. I also use washers with a larger o/d but remember that the studs, washers and nuts must still fit between the bottom frame tubes and the engine plates. As the engine is lowered down have the nuts and washers pulled as far apart as possible but not so far that they foul the frame tubes. The washers can get caught in the slots so it is fiddly. When the bottom forward stud is in place push the two 3/8 inch studs in place and then the front engine plates should locate. On slimline twin frames it may be necessary to remove the two lower rear engine plate to frame bolts and slightly undo the top two so that the whole unit will pivot slightly to the rear, allowing the bottom of the front plates to engage in the lower forward gusset mounting. Then replace all the other studs and bolts. Don't over tighten the 5/16 inch stud as it's easily stripped but have it tight enough to do its job and check it regularly for the first few rides. Good luck, Howard
Totally agree Robert when i did mine it destroyed the Norton two legged puller, i had to use one of my three legged pullers and use a bit of heat, and a good wack with a hammer. When it did let go it flew across the workshop like a bloody missile.
A gen Norton puller is a very powerfull tool as it has a finer thread than most. Fitted so the legs fit right behind the sprocket and are properly parallel ,grease the nose and thread ,do not keep winding it on but a bit more after each whack ,heating the sprocket may help. hit too heavy and case damage is possible and its likely that the timing ball bearing will be damaged whatever you do.Watch out for flying sprocket.
Robert after 50 years as an engineer in the car and motorcycle industry i do know how to use a puller no matter how many legs it has.
The Norton one has always worked for me when 3 legged ones have fell apart, perhaps yours had worn threads or not a pukka old stock shelley made one. For a time Russels had a casefull of the real deal.My instructions are for the thread starter who clearly is happy for help.
Robert , my two legged puller was a genuine Norton puller from Andover Norton and as a puller is not up to the job for which they sell it,if you have three legged pullers that fall apart i suggest you buy decent ones in the first place. In ths life you get what you pay for
I am supprised (rubbbish speeller correctoer) that any one bothers to read AJD, life is too short.
I was referring to the pukka bracebridge St Puller a solid device.Nothing like the flimsy toy thing that Andover sell. Happily I was buying my tools 10 years before you started work . Shelley made tuff stuff for much of the Motor industry and used the best steels. They do turn up black parkerised finish,very heavy ,and are stamped NORTON.mine has proved its worth over 50 years.Works on Rudge clutches too.Might see one in the Hudson Video if you can find one.
Your lucky, we have AJD attending our club meetings. Just asking her to be 'quiet' results in her threatening legal action!
Your grammar is too good, you should have left out the comma!
hello now what this about our club meeting for one It was me that set up the East yorkshire branch ten years ago but you fail to recognise this and you fail to conduct a meeting in the correct way if the words order were said you may get a better response from me and if more respected give to all the members since you have been chairman there as been a number of member left and please use club meeting time for Norton relied subject and not ones own use the ey branch is slowly dwindling we all need to work harder and get in more member and last shouting at someone only feet away is now classed as hate crime look it up you find the laws have changed, and this is a unrelated remark to the subject, your anna j Dixon
hello ebay bearing and sprocket puller set on ebay for 23 quid dose all you even need the easy way to remove an engine is to lay the bike on its side on two boxes one at ether end on a bench with the timing side down so you can get at the primary side easy the gear box sprocket is a left hand thread with a locking screw and plate, and also need to make your self a clutch locking tool out of a old clutch plate just weld on a handle, or get someone to weld you one on, and you will need a set of good part boxes to put your part in as you remove them, and please take photos as you go , yours anna j
Don’t fall out boys and girls - us newbies value your advice!
I bought a 1959 wideline Dommie 99 600cc in December 2019 - in boxes but (as it turns out) all the important tinwork present. The engine/gearbox/clutch went to Dale and he has done a great job - but it’s still on the shelf. From a Haynes and Roy Bacon’s book I finished a test build, without engine, buying parts and fasteners as I went. I managed to attend one East Mids meeting before Covid stopped all that... so I’ve been a bit short of advice and mentors. You guys have been invaluable as although I used to build race cars this is my first bike restoration.
So, it’s all now in bits again awaiting paint and when it comes back I need to tackle engine install. The lay down approach seems the best route.
just keep talking! As an exiled Yorkshireman now near Newark I would come along to an East Yorks meet just to meet Anna!
Take care all!
Mike; you been a member long enough to work out the responders. (Think there is a touch of lockdown tension creeping in). Curious to know reason for removal, and if it is necessary? I glean so much good knowledge here it’s like a school of old masters. Let’s see what we can learn from each other?
Its amazing how snippets of new information can appear and surprise , I am looking forward to the revised service notes that members are currently working on . I did try to make a contribution ,but was totally defeated by the IT logic . Covid can really mess with you in so many ways.
If anyone is struggling to remove a Dommy Engine sprocket , a good copy of the PUKKA Birmingham made NORTON heavy 2 leg puller is sold by RGM under part number 067500 £22 .0 +vat and post. Well worth a place in your workshop. Russels may also still have some orriginals ,but are not easy to contact.
The problem with computers is that the spear chucker often throws up oddities! The absolute worst is the "Predictive Text" mode, which at least one person does not have! Nor a spear chucker!
Oddly enough Andy does a kit for the AMC box so that you can remove it without removing the engine. Exactly the opposite of what you want! Just in case - its part number is FG51 and costs £19.50 +VAT.
Slotting the plates sounds a bit drastic to me but whatever solution you use, you will have to remove the engine and gearbox first.
Ref your original question, yes I have always removed engine and left g/box in place.
Remove tanks, bat box, platform.
Before inner p/chaincase consider all high torqued nuts: g/box sprocket & crankshaft oil worm are left hand,
Camshaft and alternator rotor conventional right hand
Yes I've heard of laying bike down but never tried it.
No, don't like to cut slots in engine plates as too little metal.
Now (older / wiser) consider clutch holding tool, cl extractor, crank gear pullers essential. Not worth risking damage not using them.
Hope this helps
I was successful in getting my fully built up - head on, bottom end built, carb attached - engine in single handed using the laid down method. Thanks for the advice - much easier than anticipated and no fresh paint damage!
I now understand from the thread I will need a puller to remove the crank sprocket - RGM appear to supply. Is this correct?
I need to do this to get the chaincase backing plate installed.
I presume I will not be able to complete assembly of the chaincase front cover because I will be unable to torque up the refitted crank sprocket until final drive and rear wheel installed so I can lock crank movement?
Finally, do I need a puller to get the alternator rotor off - it is mobile on its shaft but will only come so far... like it’s on a taper.... or do I need to try harder?!
I would appreciate and advice you can offer.
I attach a pic of where I am - I’m not an engineer, rather an enthusiastic amateur on his first build from boxes so please keep it simple!!
1959 Dommi 99 600 Wideline.
Steve......well done for the right approach to spanner-work. Too often I have encountered owners who have worked on raised bikes without straps. Several of whom admitted to launching their bikes while undoing gearbox and crankshaft nuts.
Hi Steve and Ivor, two very nice builds. I am now thoughrilly depressed. My workshop is nowhere near as organised and tidy as yours. A lifetime of doing everything myself and a reluctance to throwing anything away has caught up with me. Its time for a sea change. First I have to sell a bike or two.
Thanks for replies guys... Despite my lack of engineering nouse I did spend many years building and racing cars (latterly bike engines prototypes) so I have made all the basic mistakes... a few times. But I always had a team mate who “did engines”! I appreciate him even more now! Now retired I like a tidy workshop... but like somebody said - all the gear - no idea.
Hoping for an expert to come along and give me a lead.