Studs - 1956 Model 99

Previously tom_dolby wrote:

My problem is that 2 studs are slightly too short for their nuts. These are the swinging arm spindle and the "rod for cross tube" fitted 4 1/2 ins above, adjacent to the ends of the rear engine plates. Each stud need to be at least 1/8 in longer each side, ie a total of 1/4 in, to reach the outer faces of the nuts.

Each nut has a single washer that is not over thick. The nuts are locking nuts, which I realise is probably not original, with the locking sides facing inwards as otherwise they would not be effective. The nuts are 1/2 in deep.

I could cut off the locking parts of the nuts and replace the flat washers with locking washers, but even this would be a bit marginal.

I would like to buy slightly longer studs, say 1/2 in longer, but can't do this without removing the existing ones to measure them, which would immobilise the bike.

All the studs, nuts and washers are stainless.

Mot testers have tutted but not used this as a fail point.

All comments welcome.

Tom.

If you want to know the length of original studs have you thought of ringing up RGM , Andover Norton or Fair Spares and asking them.

If you want to remove your studswhat about knocking them out with a piece of longer rod and leaving the rod in as a temporary measure?

Cheers Mick

HT Engineering will make you up new stainless studs or spindles to your precise specification and to the correct threadform. Well worth contacting them - and of course can provide stainless nylock nuts if you prefer security to concours appearance.

A heavily loaded component needs the highest spec for strength ,stainless has a deserved reputation for unscrewing itself . Factor this in.

Very true Robert. There is stainless and then there is stainless. Get the wrong grade and you can have problems. I use a stainless swinging arm from Norvil. Excellent bit of kit, replacing the standard original steel one which broke, 2 up at 70. Hmm.

Very true about the different types of stainless steel. Some types can auctually even be hardened.As with any metal, there are many, many differnt variations deppending on what alloys are added & how the part is manufactured. As to unscrewing, I havent heard that one, but a drop of loc-tite will solve that. One unique proplem with stainless threads is galling. Depending on the use, either loc-tite OR thread lube such as coppa-slip, lubriplate, or similar will prevent galling.

I always use stainless wherever I can, but I always buy the best grade I can for the application. Most of my purchases have benn from Norvil, or from Molnar manx, who has a stunning amount of Norton items listed on his site & can make up anything you want. He uses these products on their Manx Nortons, so you can rest assured they are of the highest quality.

http://www.manx.co.uk/pricelists/pricelists.htm

http://www.manx.co.uk/pdf/MPL-Norton-Twins.pdf

Merry Christmas ,

Skip Brolund

The problem I have had with stainless coming loose has been when stainless is used against cast iron. To avoid galling some use copaslip ,but then you risk overtightning or loosenning .