clutch/gear selection problem!

The plates probably just need a good clean. The bronze 850 plates hardly wear (but centres can become notched and drive dogs wear).

If oil enters then you will have the symptoms which you describe; In my experience it will slip around 3500 rpm if you crack it open.

It's probably all down to the clutch but if the crank oil seal is playing up, it may have given rise to the oil contamination.

Removing the plates and giving them a good scrub in solvent with a Scotchbrite pad should cure things, although it's a task which will return.

Obviously check for any other damage and have a replacement chaincase gasket handy as the Mk3 cover rarely removes easily.

As Richard said check your centre for notches and hammering on the drive plate splines normally on the three middle drive plates. See link below for notched hardened centre photo. Get used to selecting neutral before you stop

[img]http://i.imgur.com/B7Km3sNl.jpg[/img]

Regards

Katherine

As far as I know, the MKIII clutch is operated by the same system as earlier Commandos ...? Cleaning the plates and looking for notches are very well worth doing. But it's important to adjust the clutch by the book â forgive me if I'm telling you what you already know. It's easy to double check it, that's probably what I would do first. A poorly adjusted clutch is a major cause of slipping and difficulty in finding neutral, in what is otherwise an excellent device, when it's in good nick. I've always been very happy with the genuine Norton plates, though I'm no racer. An over-tight primary drive will make neutral hard to find too, but maybe that doesn't apply to the MKIII with its automatic tensioners. Unless you've fitted a belt and are running it dry. The other thing is gearbox oil seeping through the mainshaft. It used to do it on mine and made my clutch slip, but it finds it harder now: there are seals that fit over the clutch end of the mainshaft, I have one by David Comeau, and a ring groove can be ground towards the clutch end of the clutch pushrod to accept an o-ring, that can help too. From my own experience the o-ring for that is a standard item, normally found on the Amal idle adjuster screw. So, cleaning and prevention. If the crank seal is letting in engine oil, it should be easy to remove and replace after taking off the primary drive, I did it myself recently and was surprised how quickly it was done. Hope that helps.

Had same clutch slip problem on my MK1A 850. Cleaning plates thoroughly improvedthings but some slip was still there under enthusiasticacceleration in top gear.Fitting a new set of bronze friction plates with clutchadjustment exactly as per manual cured it completely.

Neutral selection on both my MK1A and MK3 isalso completely reliable with running engine when clutch is correctly adjusted as per manual.