What is the correct paint and lettering on a fuel tank for a 1951 Inter?

Never seen the word "International" on the tank. The 'N' near the start looks slightly different from the 'N' near the end. It looks hand painted and not a transfer. So my guess is a previous owner did it. The rest looks correct...chrome with painted panel, exactly like "The Motor Cycle" test report on 1949

If you search the Brochures for 1951 on the website it will give you an idea of what it would have looked like 

Catalog a generic image from earlier times.  Looks to me like the original scheme but for the added, hand-applied "International". Pictured, my original tank as purchased:

This from 1949 Road test, exactly like Michael's. Was race livery an option? Most Inters now carry race bike tanks paint.  Did it suddenly become standard?

Hi James,

   I have attached 2 photos of my original 1950 tank that was supplied as a replacement on an earlier machine. You will notice it has a bolt hole to anchor the pre 1936 Andre damper, so it would fit all garden gate Inters 1932 to 1952. Catalogue pictures are not always accurate as they were printed in advance and were subject to change. The racing finish was often used on tanks that were sent for repair or re-furbishment as this was the easier option than the chrome finish if the tank was damaged. Your bike looks to be Clubmans spec with a bolt through tank, but it would still have the same finish.

Alloy top end, center-feed cambox, frame lugs, and tank mount to frame. That's what I can see in your first photo. Spigot mount carb seems odd.

I don't spot a fuel tap on the right side, or a dual banjo.   The spigot carb mount often used when  playing with induct length. Tank from top looks the long range steel version.  Same dual seat as mine (48).

Preserve what you can until you find out more.  Its unique but maybe someone will fill in the  details.

IMO Far more interesting to have this finish that a show pony replica...

Where are you based James?

... more photos James? I'm with Jonathan. Dust it off and make it run.

is a Clubman's International.  It got several upgrades, but the obvious one here is the bolt-through petrol and oil tanks, and a fully-painted tank instead of painted panels on chrome.  The panels are a different layout.

Interesting machine. The full length seat probably off a period road version like an ES2 model 7 / 77. Freddie Frith ran one in 38 with rear sets also.  I trust the motor turns over? And you have the ability to check spark and timing.   Send the wheels out for a clean up and new rubber, if the engine is wet? Drain residue into a clear container and see what’s suspended in it.  Wet the bore, cam, valve gear and bevels then drain all residue. Was out the tanks again noting what’s in the oil. Refit then fill with a litre the wind oil into it and keep going till the lube circuit is shown as wet end to end.  Now prep for starting. Slip the carb off but make sure you mark its position on the manifold and the position of the float chamber relevant o the main body of the carb.  Note your needle position when you take the top off.  Note the number of turns your primary needle needs to close it. Slip it off and strip to main components, check for deposits in the galleries and chambers.  Plenty of carb cleaner and air pressure. Rebuild and refit.  More?   There is plenty to come if you need advise

cheers

Jon

You'll also need to decide if it had castor oil.  And use whichever type it last ran on

...its not a "bean" burner as it looks quite clean.  Good point though, you will smell it if it is.

J

remove the nuts on the oil jets for the cam and big end.  Squirt oil directly in.  It's much better to prime the crank and camshaft directly than relying on feed via the oil pump - that will take quite a few crank rotations before anything gets through..  You can help the pump along a bit by priming the oil lines between tank and pump, and also the line from crank case to cambox.  If the cam chamber is well lubed, oil will drain down the vertical shaft and lube the bevel bushes and the ball bearings supporting the shaft itself.

James; your location may help with peoples decision to pass things on.  Collection or uk post is not expensive. I will look into my bits and pieces to see what would suit.  Not much left nowadays but happy to help you out.  Jon