hi all just stripping my commander for a respray and i have took side panels off easy the panniers are a bit awkward getting up the back side any tips will manage these ok
where do i start on the fairing assembly ie which do i remove first top bottom etc first
any help weould be appreciated
regards trev
Removing the bodywork is…
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thanks tim ive got front…
thanks tim
ive got front screen off now next is rad trim and then tank cover so repaint can start, im lucky i sell and repair spray painting myself for my company so wont cost me anything but bit paint and will look million dollars, now the engine work is different bought it off ebay more used to restoring triumphs laverdas lambrettas so this is all new and may need sending to startright they have advised me on what to do filling the cylinders with oil and turning engine over with back wheel doing this for a few days before trying to start, any more help on this would be appreciated
my last project a triton which i fully built over three years in my kitchen is on ebay for 20k blue one hope my commander looks as good as its a keeper
regards trev
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engine commissioning
Hi Trevor. If the bike was running Ok before it was laid up the you should, as advised, sqirt oil into the plug holes and the induction intake, remove the air filters to do this. Make sure that you thoroughly clean all surrounding areas because oil can pick up crud and deliver to exactly where you dont want it. Move the bike in gear forwards and backwards. If it should jam don't worry too much, it will be flaked carbon, just put more pressure in reverse and it should free up. The rotary engine will free up completely after 100 miles and then it will be an easy starter, but after standing and full of oil it wont turn over at all freely and won't start easily. Jump leads, a good battery and perserverence will be required. Just when you have decided it will never start, it will burst into life in a cloud of fog. Run the engine at least until it is at full operating temperature 85/90 degrees C.
Best of luck
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commisioning
hi tim
as you know im green to rotarys at the moment but i wil get there will the oil im putting in the plug holes and air intakes eventuly feed back into the oil tank as its full at the moment so i need to drain some off
panel removals are going well
thanks for all your help where you based tim
regards trev
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Rotary manual
l found two books very helpful Norton Commander Workshop Manual , Andover Norton may still have them in stock
Norton Commander Replacement Parts Catalogue i have only seen these second hand
and as you have already found out the vast amount of information within the club
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Oil
Hi Trevor, the rotary engine runs on total loss lubrication like a two stroke. The oil you put in the rota casing will be burnt off in a cloud of blue smoke. Expect to do about 6/800 miles per litre. This is one of the downsides because on a very long trip you have to carry oil as you won't be able to find a low ash straight 40 oil in a Halfords. I have used lawnmower SAE30 oil in an emergency.
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Removing the bodywork is fairly straightforward but some of the fastenings are a little inaccessible. Once the side panels are off remove the windscreen then the front cowling. Once off you can remove the nuts and bolts that hold the tank cover with instruments etc to the lower cowling. Obviously you have to remove the wiring snap connectors so that the assembly with the clocks and switches can be removed in one piece.
Give me a ring if you are having difficulties, number in Roadholder.
Tim