Heavy Twins

Following work on the rear end I need to adjust my rear chain. I thought I could measure the length of each wheel adjuster but can I rely on this for accuracy?

If I measure and adjust the length of each wheel adjuster and push the wheel up against the adjusters I assumed that would give me the correct alignment and then would just need to move each wheel adjuster to achieve chain tension. But then when I do this and check the clearance between the wheel rim and the swing arm I find there is a large difference in the clearance.

The rotor on my Atlas has decided to give up the ghost by the looks of it. Pity I can't post a video on here which shows exactly what's occurring so I'll have to explain in words and a few pics. In essence, the rotor has about 5mm play when rocking it back and forth on the shaft. It looks like the central metal part that slides onto the shaft/woodruff key is coming away from the larger magnet part. That play and slight wobbling on the shaft has obviously caused it to connect with the stator, so the stator is a goner too.

I  have an anti wet sump valve courtesy of RGM on my Atlas.

I've just emptied the oil tank and sump in lieu of an oil change and realised the pump will be dry unless I prime it before starting the engine. Obviously, with the valve in place no oil will gravitate down into the pump when I fill the tank up. I suppose I'll have to remove the valve again and pour engine oil into the oil union pipe, or is there another way?

Been doing a few tweaks to the front end of the ol' Atlas and noticed the new shoes I fitted a few months back on the John Tickle TLS front brake are wearing slightly irregularly (see pics) The top side seems ok but the lower side isn't.

It actually still works well as it is and I thought I'd got it right last time I adjusted it, but obviously not.

Get it spot on and I reckon a few stoppies will be in order!

How do I check if the battery is getting charged by the genny?

The battery appears to lose charge over a period of a couple of weeks if not used regularly and the lights have never been much good for night riding. This bike doesn't get used a lot due to the weather so it sits in the garage for a few weeks at a time. I fitted a new stator 6 months ago.

So I have my re-ground crank back and want good quality +20 shells now. What and who can supply these ? Is there a good brand and is there a `do not bother with out there ? Do AE supply shells for Nortons ?

cheers.

The top bolt that secures the gearbox  is innacessible to a socket set.  The nut should be reduced hexagon to allow a socket to fit . But reduced to what?. Mine is 15/16 inch across the flats and needs a 1/2 inch whit socket  which fouls the box ., Is this some more foul play by Plumstead or just a PO  alteration?.  My 99 was no trouble ,but is not with me to check . Not clear what our suppliers are actually supplying but I think 7/16 whit  hex is needed ?.

Gudgeon Pin - My 650SS came to a sudden halt. The piston had a crack and a small hole. The bores were OK so I ordered a set of standard pistons from RGM in September. For personal reasons the engine rebuild had to be put on hold and I have only just got back to it. The Gudgeon pins supplied are an interference fit in the small end – as far as I can tell they are about 1thou larger in diameter than the old ones. I have contacted RGM but not yet had a reply. I wondered if anyone else has come across this problem.

The guard on the 63 SS  lolls a bit to the offside and gets too close to the fork shroud ,the chrome is showing a wear mark. Its been off and on a few times to try to get it to behave. and i have tried wedging it over with all the fixings loose etc.,but  before i get heavy with it and start slotting the orriginal stay holes and bending things I wonder  if anyone has any crafty wisdom from solving this. The fork leg lengths are equal too.