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Twistgrip rubber - 16H

A low-tech but frustrating problem: I am struggling to fit a new twistgrip rubber. It's the correct size of 1 inch diameter, bought from the NOC. Yes, there is a hole in the end to let the air out and I have warmed it to make it flexible. I can get it a third on but that's about it. Is there a 'cleaner' trick than washing-up liquid?

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Try silicone grease. If you don't have any, it usually turns up in plumbers' merchants. Why silicone? Because it's one of the few lubricants that doesn't slowly dissolve rubber.

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I do find a bit of washing up liquid works well if you don't have any rubber grease available. Even gel hand cleaner. I have Amaltwist grips on my 16H. (I fitted them in 2006)

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The method I have used for years is to use an air compressor and a splash of petrol. Before anyone says petrol will destroy rubber, well with this method it isn't in contact long enough.

I wet the bar end and inside of the rubber gripwith petrol, then justpush the rubber grip on quickly as far as it will slide, it will generally slide reasonably freely, then, with the other end of handle bar blocked with the palm ofmy free hand (or a helper)insert the air hose gun into the small hole in grip end and slowly increase the air pressure till the escaping air stretches the grip big enough to quicklyslide on. This must be done quickly before the petrol evaporates with the rushing air. The petrol quickly dries leaving the grip firmly attached to the bar. Takes only a few seconds and with no mess to clean up.

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I've always used a quick [unofficial] squirt of the management's hair spray inside the grip, it lubes the twist/hand grip so as to get it on the 'bar and then sets solid to keep it there.

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Thank you all for your comments.

In the end, I used the one product I had to hand - Fairy liquid. It worked well and wasn't too messy. Other washing up liquids are available ...

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Previously tom_dolby wrote:

Thank you all for your comments.

In the end, I used the one product I had to hand - Fairy liquid. It worked well and wasn't too messy. Other washing up liquids are available ...

... and they all contain about 1% salt to get the corrosion going on the handlebar underneath.

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This is true Chris but I doubt this would affect good chrome or plating and the effects minimal due to the probable absence of oxygen between rubber and bar,

This reminded me. I tried to obtain a spare set of WD16H handlebars, without luck, to have them reproduced in stainless. Would the club consider having some stainless 16H handlebars made. After making my 1957 singles engine plates I've waited six years for of course!

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I'm not sure that there would be a great demand for WD16H handlebars in stainless as most of us paint them anyway. They are a little higher than the civilian pattern. I have an original set and can confirm that the Coruncopia (mild steel) replicas are very close in form (although slightly thinner walled which can cause difficulties if using the standard bar-end plugs).

Pre-war 16H civilian bars would be the same as much of the rest of the range and it would be difficult to retain the looks of the chromed originals in stainless if the tang for the flexible mounting were to be incorporated.

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Stainless bars are prone to snap off in a minor accident that would hardly bend standard steel .Thinner walls?,More brittle? don't know why,

 


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