Tight spindle

In my experiance the head must be very hot 

Don't know if a consequence of heat or not but its all very dry around there.  I would soak it overnight in a release agent and give it another pull (use some thread make up on the extractor like hemp or cotton to help with the damaged thread). 

I would use a new ss extract bolt through the original tool.  Also lubricate the tool to ensure the force is going onto the seized joint. 

No experience with seized rocker spindles but I'm not sure heat on aluminium orifice is going to help...

Good  luck

Jon

The manuals clearly state that the alloy head should be heated to at least the temperature of boiling water.

I've used a heat gun and puller for removing and replacing rocker spindles.

Worked a treat.

I'm told a hair dryer might just do it but I no longer have any need for one of those!

Andy

Christmas is comming, that cooker needs a thorough test  at 180 for 30 mins.  After a year of fry-ups and takeaways  its time.   Pre-heat the oven,place head in baking tray,baste lightly with  your favorite light oil  and  check the fire alarm  and extinguisher.  That tasteless East European Turkey  will  become a talking point for years .   

Don't use a stainless stud, it can never be high tensile. If you want hi tensile and can't get one off the shelf then get some silver steel of the right diameter, cut the thread while soft and then heat treat it to hard and then temper.

Is the rocker seized to the shaft?

No matter what, heat the head or you risk dragging  aluminum out.

200c/400F in oven, spot heat is inadequate IMO.

Test head with IR heat gun thermometer,

Slightly off topic, but I'm glad you confirmed my belief that S/S can't really be the equivalent of the "old-fashioned" High Tensile nuts, bolts and setscrews.  I am uncomfortable about using them as a substitute for head and barrel fixings.  For one thing the are more elastic than HT - "stretchy" in common parlance.

As a structural engineer I never designed anything using S/S  fixings.  By all means use it for show and low maintenance but there is little to be gained using it in highly stressed situations.  A bit of oil to protect HT fixings from rust isn't difficult.

... the Removal tool was armed with a decent grade extractor bolt.   I suggested the ss as an  upgrade on what was used.  For sure if equipped correctly a heat treated Silver steel would  prove more robust.   Due to the damage to the thread in the spindle I fear this might not work either.

Seasons Greetings

Jon

Lots of info here:

http://www.volksbolts.com/faq/basics.htm

Our stainless bolt suppliers never tell us the grade but A2/304 is most common.  Its yield is well down on alloy steels (typically grade 8.8)

... David.

I'd still give it a good soaking overnight to penetrate then give it a try. It went in, and it doesn't  spin....  It cant be that frozen can it??

As David, says heat is prescribed in the manual and the other contributors confirm it's been a successful method. 

Just think about how you are going to hold it in position to fit the tool and wind some load onto it....

Wood and oven gloves come to mind... 

Cheers

Jon  

You could persevere with the puller, but you could also bin it and get the slide hammer version to extract the spindle; they are not expensive.  A combination of sufficient heat and the slide hammer has always worked perfectly for me, and you might find shock load is more effective than a progressively applied load?

For holding caliper halves together I use A4/80 stainless bolts, but only available in metric so no good for Lockheed calipers. For stainless spokes I up the gauge as I order by measuring the spokes I take off not by application.

Once the head is good and hot, you should try to rotate the spindle first. Once it has come unstuck, it will pull out easily.

tony

I agree with Andrew's comments. This method has worked for me.