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sls front brake

For years I fiddled with the 99 brake to try to give it some BITE, Then I read that Nortons said to bore out the plate 1/32" to allow to centralise , This made no difference so I decided to bore a bit more. Scrap one plate!. I then remembered the very tatty plate in my crate of old parts. This was fitted with home made scoops and vent holes. Fitted this and the brake was back to normal. After carefull measurement I swopped the shoes over with the thickest on the leading shoe. After a bit of running in I now have the best Norton brake I have ever tried. Looking through some old mags I spot a picture of the winner of the 500 mile Thruxton race and it has a home made plate absolutely identical to mine. Hmmm, well I did find it in a crate full of genuine Dunstall parts and other race bits that I sold on for a pittance, I wonder-----.

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I took my Atlas front wheel to a motorcycle brake expert. He skimmed the drum to get rid of the scratches and uneven wear. Then he fitted a set of linings to the brake plate that were machine finished to match the drum size. The result was a SLS front brake that had the tyre squealing when used in anger. I did not need a scoop or cooling holes. The downside was when the shoes needed replacing. Standard shoes were too slack and had to be shimmed out at the cam to work at all. Back to square one.

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I've been fretting for ages about how the two brake types work.

First assumption: the rate of wear must be in proportion to the contact pressure.

Second assumption; in the long term both shoes must wear at the same rate or they would not continue to fit the drum.

Conclusion: both shoes exert the same pressure. An SLS brake effectiveness should be exactly half way between one with two leading shoes and a TLS brake put on backwards.

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Saftek in Yorkshire will reline your brake shoes, and offer thick linings. It's then up to you to get them machined to suit your drum.

Paul

Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

I took my Atlas front wheel to a motorcycle brake expert. He skimmed the drum to get rid of the scratches and uneven wear. Then he fitted a set of linings to the brake plate that were machine finished to match the drum size. The result was a SLS front brake that had the tyre squealing when used in anger. I did not need a scoop or cooling holes. The downside was when the shoes needed replacing. Standard shoes were too slack and had to be shimmed out at the cam to work at all. Back to square one.

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I always used to put the shoes back on the way they came off,thinking its worn in that way so keep it that way. Then after looking at my really feeble Rudge brake I noticed that the leading shoe was much more worn. As an experiment I swapped them over and very soon had an effective brake. Tried the same on the Norton with the same result. I now will regularly check shoe thickness with a caliper and swap them round.

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I had an oval drum on the front of by BSA B33 and had it skimmed. Took the wheel to Saftek who measured it and used slightly thicker lining material; fitted nice and close.

Also, they offered a choice of lining material. I opted for the high friction one which they warned would wear quicker than standard. With a low annual mileage I think that it is worth increased wear to achieve a decreased stopping distance. Will probably create more heat possibly causing brake fade , but I just go carefully down long, steep inclines (not many in North Lincolnshire!) and have not had a problem.

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Hello All - as regards fitting a variety of lining material to suit one's braking needs, I believe that you can't do better than have a word with Ian Campbell in Whaley Bridge. He'll skim the drum with the rim on and then fit the linings of your choice to the shoes and machine them to suit the actual diameter. Often fitting new rims changes the diameter marginally - caused by the spoke tension. This can mean the difference between a poor brake and a good one. Ian is at ; Classic Brake Services, PO Box 5, Whaley Bridge high Peak, Derbyshire, SK23 7LL. Land Line 01633 732025 .

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Exactly my thoughts Richard. It's not just to do with contact area but also the friction co-efficient of the brake linings. If - as many of us intend - you only do a low mileage, then softer linings will give you more grip, but wear out quicker obviously. I rate better grip / braking as more important than rate of wear. I have a shiny new TLS brake from Norvil but intend to alternate with the original SLS with softer, skimmed linings and drum. The TLS won't pass Concours so I would swap if going for that level.

Previously richard_mills wrote:

I had an oval drum on the front of by BSA B33 and had it skimmed. Took the wheel to Saftek who measured it and used slightly thicker lining material; fitted nice and close.

Also, they offered a choice of lining material. I opted for the high friction one which they warned would wear quicker than standard. With a low annual mileage I think that it is worth increased wear to achieve a decreased stopping distance. Will probably create more heat possibly causing brake fade , but I just go carefully down long, steep inclines (not many in North Lincolnshire!) and have not had a problem.

 


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