Rough woodruff

Just do it anyway,if the seal does go you can pull it out and change it without stripping the motor cheers nick

Nicholas is absloutely right. The thick smear of grease sounds like a good idea though. If you let the bike wet sump, it will force some oil past the crankshaft seal getting rid of any grinding paste before it could do some harm. Worked for me.

Paul wrote:

I gave in and bought a new pulley from RGM to replace my battered hayward sprocket, I'm pretty sure the rotor nut wasn't fully home, which caused the woodruff trouble posted above. The problem is I'm not altogether happy with the fit of this new one, I can rock it ever so slightly on the taper without the woodruff installed. The new unit is alloy as opposed to steel but I have an old alloy Norvil sprocket which seems to fit o.k. So I need some advice or thoughts on what my options are:-

Will the alloy pull up good on the taper when the assembly is fully torqued.

Fit it and see.

Will the alloy expand when it's hot and need to retighten the rotor nut (could this induce a type of interference fit).

Doubt that you will need to retighten but fit it, ride it and then see.

Should I stick some loctite 660 on it and ride away (for worn shafts and tapers upto .020").

Fit it without and see before considering this.

Should I shove some brass shim under it first.

No.

Should I carry on lapping, only thought is if there is a slight problem on the crank taper, I won't grind this down with an alloy pulley.

No.

Should I buy a Honda.

Yes and give me the Commando.

I would stick with a standard steel crankshaft sprocket, lapped to the taper as required. If you can't guarantee 100% that you wont introduce grinding paste into the cases then I would strip the engine to carry out the lapping. At least you'll sleep at night.

The woodruff key is for location only, its the taper that the sprocket is driven by so you need a well seated taper.