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Rear Isoelastics

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I have removed the front Isoelastic engine mounting. The rubbers look shot although I havn't removed the  rubbers yet. 

While I am doing this I thought I might as well do the rear ones. The engine is off the bike but not the gearbox. I'm not clear on how to remove the rear Isoelastics. . It looks like the z plates and oil tank carrier and frame lugs are in the way. The bike is a Roadster

Also is the swinging arm  as likely to need attention as the front Isoelastics are so bad?

Thanks

John 

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I checked my front isolastics and put a picture on the forum they were full of rust.

Rears were Ok but changed both out for verneer type simple to fit don't forget the rubber grease.

Yep Z plates off,  so you might as well sort the swing arm as well mine was  corroded in place and needed hammering out.

Just replaced the pin into original bushes as was told the bushes don't wear, and they were right i have no play on the swing arm, with new standard pin fitted.

Let us know if you decide to replace swing arm pin.

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Unless your machine is a Mk III, you should while you are at it consider the Kegler spindle clamp modification, designed to cope with the tendency for the swinging arm spindle to wallow out the tube in the gearbox cradle (see attached file).

If you don't feel like doing this yourself both Holland Norton Works (http://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/en/exclusive-commando-parts) and NYC Norton (https://nycnorton.com/product/swingarm-spindle-kit/) offer ready-made versions. I used the NYC version: not cheap, especially after import duties, but very nicely made.

In doing the job I also ground a couple of troughs in the spindle for the clamping screws to bear on, as a rough-and-ready way of replicating the Mk III cotter pin arrangement. As the old NOC service notes point out, with the standard set-up all that holds your back wheel in place are (1) the little rod that holds the end caps together, and (2) the oil filler screw!

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