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New bike tips to get running

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Hi Guys. At the age of 53, I've finally managed to get myself a Commando to rebuild. It's a 1970 750cc model, which has spent its life in California.

It was bought as non running. Having apparently been stored for at least 35 years, it shows a paltry 6000 miles - which looks genuine.

Next step is to try and get it running.Today, I took off the tank and carbs. Only a sludgy varnish remained - a good indicator than it hasn't been run for many years. It turns over freely so the next step will be to get the carbs cleaned and new points and plugs installed, to try and get it started.

I'd really like some idea of what else to replace electrically to give me the best chance of getting it running. I'm sure plenty of capacitors and diodes would have perished over the last 35 plus years? Many thanks.

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If your getting a good spark at the plugs I wouldn't worry about changing anything on the ignition side for the moment. Worth checking the timing though.

Even though the carbs have only done 6,000 miles the slides and bodies are going to be over half way to worn out so I would by a pair of new Amal Premiers, instead of spending money on carb cleaning.

Useful to check cylinder sealing either with a compression test, or preferably a leak down test. A leak down test will indicate effectiveness of valve to seat sealing as well as ring to bore sealing.

Stating the obvious but, drain, remove and clean oil tank. Drain crankcase oil.

Temporarily fitting an oil pressure gauge to the rocker feed, as well as checking for oil returning to the tank, will give you vital information on start up.

With a good battery and assuming all is well, she should be a runner.

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Previously simon_ratcliff wrote:

If your getting a good spark at the plugs I wouldn't worry about changing anything on the ignition side for the moment. Worth checking the timing though.

Even though the carbs have only done 6,000 miles the slides and bodies are going to be over half way to worn out so I would by a pair of new Amal Premiers, instead of spending money on carb cleaning.

Useful to check cylinder sealing either with a compression test, or preferably a leak down test. A leak down test will indicate effectiveness of valve to seat sealing as well as ring to bore sealing.

Stating the obvious but, drain, remove and clean oil tank. Drain crankcase oil.

Temporarily fitting an oil pressure gauge to the rocker feed, as well as checking for oil returning to the tank, will give you vital information on start up.

With a good battery and assuming all is well, she should be a runner.

Thanks for the advice Simon.I will post results (or not!)
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I would advise some caution before starting an engine that has been stored for so long. How was the bike stored? How often was the engine turned over......if at all in that time?

My concern is that that the internals of stored engines tend to deteriorate with time, especially if any moisture gets inside. I bought two Atlas engines, from different owners, that had both been garage stored for more than 20 years. In both of these engines the oil had acidified causing serious metal erosion in the bores and on the crankshaft big ends. Honing sorted out the bores but both crankshafts had to be reground to take out the pitting.

Over the years, I have met several owners who just put fresh oil and petrol in a 'shed find' then roared off down the road. Only for things to go 'bang' around 20 miles later.

Be careful before you make a very costly mistake.

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However, bikes can be stored for years and years and all can be well. A year or two back I put a Douglas back on the road which had been stored for 12 years with no problems - one magneto rewind and oil and petrol. A friend bought a Scott this year which had been standing in a shed since 1970. Oil, petrol and water and it fired up. Should I have sold it to him?

 


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