Mk.lll not charging

I'm sure you should only have one rectifier. I've had a Podtronics regulator/rectifier fitted for the last 7 years/43,500 miles and no problems. My charging system compromises of alternator stator, rotor, podtronics and battery. Rotor has recently been replaced after magnets coming loose from hub, but it had done 143,500 miles. Upgrading to modern electronics makes sense in my opinion,

Simon.

Simon, slightly off topic but I'd be interested if you could write about your Commando experiences, what gives up at what mileage, what goes wrong and what works better etc. My Mk3 at 30,500 miles is only a baby to yours. Not enough high mileage features and yet these you learn most from.

Back on topic; on my sick 650, no charging was down to a bad connection from one of the two wires that come from the stator, at the connector, further up. Just a thought.

Chris,

That's what I thought re two rectifiers. I don't know about your other questions as it's not my bike - apologies if the second paragraph is addressed to Steve.

Neil,

I'll see if I can remember whats needed replacement and why over the miles,

Simon.

Previously steve_elston wrote:

hi all

I'm sorry folks for stating I thought I had two rectifiers installed , (early grey moment)when I removed the battery to see what was behind it in the dark grotty bit near the blue u2 battery thing in the spring . I noticed sometime in the past the rectifier was upgraded to a solid state item

anyway it still not charging, the continuity from the alternator to both feed wires of the rectifier is good , I'm thinking a rectifier replacement may be in order ( cheapest option),

sorry for misleading you earlier

steve

Steve, that blue thing is the capacitor, if it is working it will give you charge to kick start with a flat battery. (Not if your charging system isn't working) A Boyer power box might offer a solution if the problem is not with your stator, rotor or wiring. This would replace the other bits that might have seen better days.

Previously simon_ratcliff wrote:

Chris,

That's what I thought re two rectifiers. I don't know about your other questions as it's not my bike - apologies if the second paragraph is addressed to Steve.

Neil,

I'll see if I can remember whats needed replacement and why over the miles,

Simon.

Should be a good story Simon, I'm still on standard bore. Cams shot at 24K,Primary chain at 30K and a few bits in between on mine. Making the Amal Mk 1single carb conversion earlier would have paid for some of that!

Just purchased and fitted a A Reg One regulator / rectifier from Norbsa, I think Al Oz sells them as well. They are rated at 200W and easy to fit being smaller than the podtronics unit, It is also a lot cheaper. If need be I can supply photos of it fitted.

Not done many real miles on it to comment on the reliability, but in the Electrical section a lot of owners rate it.

The output wire from the regulator is the one that has continuity back to the battery negative terminal wire. The colours in the MKIII wiring diagram, though they correspond to the key, their use in the loom may not be correct depending on where your MKIII was delievred to or due to be delivered to. If it is US or UK it will be fine, Canadian 'lights always on' is different like mine.

Hope this helps.

You should check out why the stator has ended up in that state(or) (another joke) before fitting the new one.

Some members do seem to be getting a bit possessive about the content of threads sticking to the original posting, it's just the normal way conversations develop. I only included the mileage figure to give you an indication of the podtronics reliability if you were to buy one. The rotor mileage is also relevant to the subject of charging systems reliability - chill out.

100% agree with you Simon,

Neil.

The stator on the MKIII is right pain to install if it is new. It will helps to ensure that the primary inner cover is assembled correctly and tightened iaw the manual.

You may find that the stator / rotor clearance gap will be a minimum at the 1 O'clock position. Mine needed some fettling of the stator mounting holes with a round file to enable the gap to be obtained in that position. once achieved, the stator is always mounted in this position and in future will not be problem in future assembl, just check it. There is reference somewhere that the assembly can be tapped to get the clearance, but the idea of tapping the stator and alloy mounting assembly and associated studs is asking for damage. If I was mounting a new stator, I would order two primary chaincase gaskets so I could re-check the clearance once the bike has moved of the centre stand and has some power put through the primary drive, a pain I know, but cheaper than a new stator and the hindrance of breakdown.

I beleive that there is now a new stator and rotor that will give more clearance. Paul at Norbsa may know, as this as where I think read about it.

Where there is insufficient clearance (should be 0.008") I think it is best to file iron segments of stator where req. sounds brutal but works. Alternative is to turn eccentric dowels to suit either stator mountings on carrier plate or crankcase studs. Requires further machining to stator and/or carrier to fit dowels and allow required movement to establish stator is concentric to rotor. Problem is stator is sometimes not mounted concentrically to rotor so fitting rotor and stator with larger gap only masks the issue. I agree with Ashley, don't hit the assembly to try and achieve the necessary gap, or, as mentioned in Commando service notes, 'adjust' the inner chaincase central supporting nut.