In the course of much head scratching whilst trying to establish the cause of the fuse blowing problem, I have focussed my attention on the light switch and cannot reconcile the wiring of the switch as fitted with the wiring diagram.
Does this look like the correct switch for a 1962 650SS?
The terminals number up to 7 - the wiring diagram shows terminals numbering up to 11.
I now have reason to believe that there has been some bodging going on.
Thinking definitely new light switch - would 34289A be correct?
Thinking probably AO Services wiring loom kit.
Any feedback appreciated.
Don't shoot the messenger.....
Just to be clear - none of this is my doing, so please don't shoot the messenger.
The bike is new to me and I am just trying to work through the problems created by a previous owner and find a solution.
I am just looking for some help from those who may be more familiar with how this SHOULD be wired. At some point over the past 62 years, someone, perhaps several previous owners, has bodged this up and I am just trying to undo this bodgination.
To summarise: last weekend, I found that the battery was completely fried. I fitted a new battery, and when connected, the fuse blew.
Further investigation today led me to the wiring within the headlamp housing and finding the switch wiring to be inconsistent with the wiring diagram in the maintenance manual.
I will now be replacing the incorrect 41SA switch and bodged wiring with the correct 88SA switch together with the corresponding 88SA plug/ socket wiring connector. I am hoping that this will then interface correctly with the colour-coded wiring bullet connectors on the loom within the headlamp housing.
I am not very good with sorting out other people's incompetence, but am just trying to return this to some semblance of normality which is why I will probably need to purchase one of your loom kits.
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hello, just wondering if…
hello,
just wondering if the horn is working ok and not shorting out internally. or are the brake light switch connections shorting out to earth.
barry
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Horn working OK
I took a direct feed to various electrical consumers, including the horn, and got normal functionality.
I did find that one filament on the headlamp bulb was blown by this process.
After much footering, I did manage to get everything working off the battery with the fuse in place.
I tried to start the bike and the fuse immediately blew!
I sent off the rectifier and Zener diode to AO Services this morning for testing.
A (correct) new switch with socket/ plug and correct colour wire tails with bullet connectors for connection to the original loom will hopefully arrive by the end of the week together with the tested rectifier and Zener and a loom kit for further endeavours to commence.
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After seeing this switch wiring we have a question? Is the switch/bike wired with the STD British wiring system?? If so the following applies, the BLU feeds the dip switch for head light. The BRN/GRN feeds the rear light and speedo lights. The GRN/BLK is alternator low output, while the GRN/YLW is alternator High output, So when the head light is switched on the alternator goes to high output to keep up-OK so far. Then we have RED wire! If the bike is Positive earth this is 'rubbish'. Then there is a black wire as earth on the headlamp connector, is this Negative Earth? The answer here is if you are not very good with electrics stick to the standard colours and we can help, if you make it up-you are on your own, have fun-you will.