Heavy clutch, solutions?

whats the history of the bike IE was the clutch light and then got heavy? has it always been heavy? is the clutch lever the right one because some other makes have the pivot point in a different position,if the clutch has been re built its probably the stack height thats wrong (the pressure plate comes in different thicknesses) its been so long since i had mine apart i cant remember what it should be but your manual will tell you,the clutch on your commando should be pretty light ,when correctly adjusted it should be a little stiff as you pull the lever then get very light as the diafram yields when the lever is pulled back to the bars regards nick

I have a completely standard clutch, not had any problems, though some of my friends seem to think the clutch is heavy (they ride UJM's). Correct routing also helps to get a nice straight pull on the lever

Regards

Mike

Mk III

Hi Andrew - there are a number of things to try. One of the most important is to check the routing of the clutch cable. It's very tempting to strap the cable to the frame at numerous points to achieve a neat appearance but this can create numerous tight bends and 'pinch points' causing a heavy clutch. Is the cable in good condition? no frays and well lubricated etc. If it needs replacement you couldn't do better than to fit a Venhill cable. Further than that there are numerous options available. I fitted an RGM 'Bronze Clutch conversion kit' which gives more grip but also makes for a lighter clutch. They can also supply the anodised hardened alloy pressure plate which lightens the clutch operation. I'd certainly recommend that you check the clutch cable routing in the first case.

HtH

Mark Woodward.

Andrew,

As the guys said; routing is important as is a decent nylon lined cable from Venhill. In addition the stack height of the clutch pack is key to full grip and a light clutch. Mine is 4 fingers but light enough and measured a few years ago as follows.......

Clutch pack with 4 steel, 4 Surflex = 28,5/1.112"

Pressure plate = 5,92/.233"

That total includes the pressure plate of which there are a few versions, std steel, special aluminum etc. If you have the Surflex fibre plates (4) you probably have 3 steels. Add another steel as above.

If you are feeling flush, you could also replace the cable with a hydraulic system here:

(there's also a clutch cable routing diagram in the INOA notes)

Mike

You can experiment with the stack height of the clutch plates and adjust by fitting an extra steel plate, this is a cheaper option than the thicker pressure plate. Also the handlebar lever has a smaller dimension from pivot to nipple, 7/8" if I remember. Most after market levers are 1". Finally new cables should have a nylon liner round the nipple at the handlebar end to prevent the nipple grating in the alloy lever. the lever, if adjusted properly should have a initial pull required, followed by a slight "give" as the spring pops through the over centre position. If you go down the route of the gucci RGM plates that have the thin band of bronze around the edge, you may think of removing the inner part of the steel plates that will now be doing nothing other than adding ballast. The bronze clutch is very heavy.

I followed what Dynodave points out here.With Barnett plates, mine (Mk2 850) is now a true one-finger clutch, with no slipping.Boils down to having the top of the ridge of the (original) pressure plate 5 mm below the edge of the clutch housing. It is then JUST possible to install the spring of the diaphragm.Attached a picture of the stack height.

yes i have found barnet plates to be the best i get no drag no slipping and a very light clutch but i run a belt primary drive with a Maney outrigger bearing regards nick

yes check the stack height that is what was wrong with mine the difference it made was amazing regards nick