hard to find Neutral

Previously john_holmes wrote:

Check the primary chain tensioner, if the chain gets tight then neutral is hard to get.

Hi John The primary Chain on a Mk3 is all done by two Hydraulic tensioners so they are Not adjustable

Previously richard_payne wrote:

Have you had a look at the neutral switch ? The Mk3 has a switch operated by a button on the camplate. The switch itself is adjustable (it screws in and has a locknut).

If the switch is screwed even slightly too far in, it will have the effect of acting like an 'anti-detent' on the neutral position. The plunger / brass switch body will push the cam back one way or the other.

It's a problem as if it is not screwed in far enough, it will not work consistently. I remember causing this effect on mine years ago.

Hi RichardYes, I have even tried to do the Neutral switch in and out and even done it so it was right out so it did not work and still had the same problem of Not getting Neutral...it`s all getting a bit of a nightmare... the next thing as I said was to strip it down and look at the camplate to see if there is anything wrong there ?

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Bent gearbox shaft? ,tight bushes, no end float, rusty or bent clutch rod.plates not flat.wobbly drum on loose bearing.

HI Robert

I have checked out the push rod and that is fine both for rust and being not bent same with the Clutch plates they are fine even replaced the Clutch Centre and the bearing still the same,

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

I had a poor gearchange for years on my 99,and fiddled with everything to little result. A big improvement came after fettling a gear and shaft to remove rough surfaces that were making the change stiff, at the same time a new spider stopped the clutch putting pressure on the sleeve gear,a set of oversize rollers cut drum wobble and contact between the plates and the drum.Setting spring heights with a dial guage and a new primary chain to cure a tight spot all helped and finally a new nylon lined cable passing through a new hole in the gearbox plates. I now only need a non existing longer gear lever to allow me to wear my new bigger Daytona boots !. May have to make one.

I have put new primary chain as well as the clutch hub centre and bearing ..but as I said you can not even get Neutral even with the bike not running....but it gets a right pain when you come to traffic lights or a junctions..... I think I am lousing my mind as without taken the inner and out box off and having a look at whats going on in there I can`t do anymore still think it might be the cam plate as it has not got a nice click when you go from 1st to second or 2nd to 1st it seems like there is no Nuetral ...so again I am thinking is the groove in the cam plate warn and the detent plunger cant locate the groove,

the next qeustion can the gearbox be taken apart without taken the primary apart ?

oh one more thing what are the best plates to run in a mk3 as I have got Fibre plates

Previously christopher_winsby wrote:

I run with less than one turn clearance on the clutch adjuster.

For Testing only, remove all clearance in the clutch adjustment and cable.See if you can get neutral more easy.

Did you check clutch Drum and center for grooving.?

Check plates of flatness, tangs for spreading.

You have probably checked al these but thought I would mention them.

It sounds like you have looked at all the easy things. If still riding take it easy, How many miles has it done, and do you know its history? A full gearbox strip is expensive, time consuming and a pain to do. But a seized gearbox can cost a lot more.

It is probably something simple but will need sorting.

Have you checked the gear selectors.

Hi Christopher

the gearbox has done about 3000 miles on the box which was overhalled... it has no problems other than the nuetral one.

as I asked before this can you strip a mk3 gearbox without taken the primary apart ?

as for the selectors that would only happen if I get stuck into taken the inner and out off...was me next job