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Half link

Submitted by george_phillips on Fri, 05/02/2016
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Nortons - General

I ordered a half link for the final drive chain (5/8" x 1/4") for my '55 ES2 from RGM. It arrived promptly the following day. Problem is that whilst it is 1/4" across the inner face if the flats, the flats themselves are thicker than the original so won't fit between the open link left after removing a link. Has anyone come across this before? How do I ensure it won't happen again without buying a whole new chain?

Submitted by richard_payne on Fri, 05/02/2016

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To be honest, I wouldn't fit a half link to a used chain, but the only way to be certain is to use the same make - Japanese and some European equivalents do have these thick side-plates which often cause problems with the small clearances behind our chaincases.

Iwis and Regina both make chains that are dimensionally identical to the older Renold or Coventry types.

Submitted by george_phillips on Fri, 05/02/2016

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Thanks for that, Richard.I was just checking on the cost of a new chain although I think the one I have has not done many miles. I'll check the length tomorrow for wear.The half link I have is Regina and is worse that an interference fit.This all comes from addng a half link in the primary chain to get the correct tension (see other threads!)

Submitted by george_phillips on Sun, 07/02/2016

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Just to add to my earlier comment, Richard, I checked the length of a section of the rear chain and it showed a "stretch of 1/4" over 2 feet which I understand is within tolerance. I think it would stand a half link OK but I'm open to comments. Also open to views on the different makes!George

Submitted by john_holmes on Mon, 08/02/2016

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Chain is a lot cheaper and easier to change than sprockets so I change chain well before the wear limit and last changed a sprocket 20 years ago.

Submitted by alan_stothart on Fri, 19/02/2016

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If anybody is looking for links either half, or link and a half I have a large selection of various sizes, all from a shop that closed down several years ago.

Submitted by david_cooper on Sat, 20/02/2016

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The link Fritz sent has a curious conversation about the crank being the wrong way round. I can understand the reason for a Uclip running blunt end first. .. but does anyone know what can possibly go wrong with crank direction? Is it just a salesman discouraging people from doing their own maintenance?

Submitted by ian_macdougall on Tue, 01/03/2016

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This may be a bit academic but there is a formula for calculating the length of a chain (in pitches) given the pitch, the number of teeth on each sprocket, and the distance between sprocket centres. If the result is an odd number then a half link will be required. If you want to avoid the use of a cranked link then it should be possible to put alternative sprocket sizes into the equation to produce an even result. I haven't tried to apply the formula yet but the next time I remove the primary covers I will check it out. The attached document contains the formulae, as published in "Machinery's Handbook".

Ian McD

Attachments chain-length-formulae-pdf

Submitted by ian_macdougall on Tue, 01/03/2016

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This may be a bit academic but there is a formula for calculating the length of a chain (in pitches) given the pitch, the number of teeth on each sprocket, and the distance between sprocket centres. If the result is an odd number then a half link will be required. If you want to avoid the use of a cranked link then it should be possible to put alternative sprocket sizes into the equation to produce an even result. I haven't tried to apply the formula yet but the next time I remove the primary covers I will check it out. The attached document contains the formulae, as published in "Machinery's Handbook".

Ian McD

Attachments chain-length-formulae-pdf

 


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