I ordered a half link for the final drive chain (5/8" x 1/4") for my '55 ES2 from RGM. It arrived promptly the following day. Problem is that whilst it is 1/4" across the inner face if the flats, the flats themselves are thicker than the original so won't fit between the open link left after removing a link. Has anyone come across this before? How do I ensure it won't happen again without buying a whole new chain?
To be honest, I wouldn't…
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Thanks for that, Richard.I…
Thanks for that, Richard.I was just checking on the cost of a new chain although I think the one I have has not done many miles. I'll check the length tomorrow for wear.The half link I have is Regina and is worse that an interference fit.This all comes from addng a half link in the primary chain to get the correct tension (see other threads!)
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Just to add to my earlier…
Just to add to my earlier comment, Richard, I checked the length of a section of the rear chain and it showed a "stretch of 1/4" over 2 feet which I understand is within tolerance. I think it would stand a half link OK but I'm open to comments. Also open to views on the different makes!George
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Chain is a lot cheaper and…
Chain is a lot cheaper and easier to change than sprockets so I change chain well before the wear limit and last changed a sprocket 20 years ago.
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Have a look here http://ww…
Have a look here http://www.accessnorton.com/chain-t18057.html and you'll know all about chains 
Fritz
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If anybody is looking for…
If anybody is looking for links either half, or link and a half I have a large selection of various sizes, all from a shop that closed down several years ago.
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The link Fritz sent has a…
The link Fritz sent has a curious conversation about the crank being the wrong way round. I can understand the reason for a Uclip running blunt end first. .. but does anyone know what can possibly go wrong with crank direction? Is it just a salesman discouraging people from doing their own maintenance?
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This may be a bit academic…
This may be a bit academic but there is a formula for calculating the length of a chain (in pitches) given the pitch, the number of teeth on each sprocket, and the distance between sprocket centres. If the result is an odd number then a half link will be required. If you want to avoid the use of a cranked link then it should be possible to put alternative sprocket sizes into the equation to produce an even result. I haven't tried to apply the formula yet but the next time I remove the primary covers I will check it out. The attached document contains the formulae, as published in "Machinery's Handbook".
Ian McD
Attachments
chain-length-formulae-pdf
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This may be a bit academic…
This may be a bit academic but there is a formula for calculating the length of a chain (in pitches) given the pitch, the number of teeth on each sprocket, and the distance between sprocket centres. If the result is an odd number then a half link will be required. If you want to avoid the use of a cranked link then it should be possible to put alternative sprocket sizes into the equation to produce an even result. I haven't tried to apply the formula yet but the next time I remove the primary covers I will check it out. The attached document contains the formulae, as published in "Machinery's Handbook".
Ian McD
Attachments
chain-length-formulae-pdf
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Thanks Ian. I'll have pla…
Thanks Ian. I'll have play with that and see what transpires.George
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To be honest, I wouldn't fit a half link to a used chain, but the only way to be certain is to use the same make - Japanese and some European equivalents do have these thick side-plates which often cause problems with the small clearances behind our chaincases.
Iwis and Regina both make chains that are dimensionally identical to the older Renold or Coventry types.