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Front fork upper spring cover removal

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Hi,

How is the upper front fork spring cover attached on a 1961 ES2 and how is it removed?

Thank,

Greg

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 Small slotted head screws  up into the lower yoke ,   you need to remove the fork legs  to get in there.  Bit fiddly but   OK.

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Thanks, that is what I was afraid of. I have quite a bit of rust in that area and I'm afraid the screws are rusted in.

 

Greg

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On the bright side I got 4 out, one moves but only about a quarter turn and the last one will not budge and someone before me boogered up the slot in that screw head.

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A few ideas, dremel the head off?, long drill bit to remove head?, Take off yoke and give to engineer?.  Go up the pub for a soothing   pint of proper Ale ?. 

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Gregory,

If you haven't got one already then get a long screwdriver, with magnetic end, to help getting these screws out and back in again.  I bought my screwdriver from Toolstation, but there other places like ebay that sell screwdrivesr that are 250 or 300mm long.  You may need two blade sizes to make sure you get a good fit into the screw slot.

Philip.

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... give it a good whack to try to form the slot as much as possible. They are horrible things and I've never managed them in situ - always had to take the yokes off.

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There ways always that heart wrenching moment when a screw drops out and rattles around on top of the fork leg. You can see the work for one poxy little screw!

I would have thought posidrive screws would be a good answer, I think they are 2BA. Allegedly 2BA Posi was never made?

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I don't know when posidrive screws became  common, I was most surprised to find my  1959 built  DL  had them securing the rear chaincase .  Even more surprised to find a box of 100  nicely plated  perfect  replacements in my  fixings cupboard  (left over from  some job) . Never realised old Nortons were  so trendy  way back then !.

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Yes i agree with all above comments. When I tackle this task I spread an old white sheet  under the front end to catch the inevitable failure when the screw drops off the end of the screwdriver. Come to think of it I spread a sheet under the bike for a lot of other jobs too.

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I am the proud owner of possibly the world's largest amateur collection of 2BA nuts, bolts and washers. Not one has a cross head of either pattern. I must now search for even more...

I seem to remember using blutak last time I fitted the shrouds, and although I cannot now remember I do believe they were cross headed. I also know that at least one has a thin shim washer between the top plate of the shroud and the fork. Otherwise that one does not sit square enough to avoid dragging its lower edge on the forks. Perhaps due to a knock...perhaps out of square when made.

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When I put them on I use 2BA x 1/2" Stainless cap heads  and use a 9" T key and Loctite. Very easy to fit and almost as easy to remove next time. Expensive, though, but worth it.

Usually the collars aren't actually countersunk, but if they are just turn them around.

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It wasn't too bad working up from under the bike. I got all of the screws out except for the one with the damaged slot in the head. I got lucky and got it to back out enough to insert a hacksaw blade between the upper cover and the yoke to remove the head. It turned out well and I feel lucky that I just need to drill and tap one new hole.

The screws I removed are slotted head screws and not posi-drive. I haven't made my mind up as to which style to use as a replacement since I have both.

 


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