Skip to main content
English French German Italian Spanish

Front brake shoe problem

Just removed my front wheel to fit a new tyre ready for Germany in two weeks time and found the bonded on friction material has come away, only hanging on by about 20%. Do I glue it or drill through the original shoe holes to fit rivets?This is a Commando 2LS, the drum was skimmed by Hagons in 2005 and I had over size friction material fitted by a local firm (they no longer exist) then the whole brake plate assembly was turned to fit the new drum size perfectly. Its been a good brake and done lots of miles since then. It still fits the drum very well and I donât have time to get another set of custom shoes made. Do I glue it or drill through the original shoe holes to fit rivets?

Attachments front-brake-jpg
Permalink

Hello Alan, Think I'd err toward rivets, but no harm in bonding aswell. If you just use glue & it fails,..... could be a bit nasty. If you rivet, don't counter bore the friction material too deep, leave a reasonable thikness so the rivet head can't pull through, but I'm probably teaching granny to suck eggs there.

Regards, Tim

Permalink

Previously tim_gostling wrote:

Hello Alan, Think I'd err toward rivets, but no harm in bonding aswell. If you just use glue & it fails,..... could be a bit nasty. If you rivet, don't counter bore the friction material too deep, leave a reasonable thikness so the rivet head can't pull through, but I'm probably teaching granny to suck eggs there.

Regards, Tim

Thanks for your opinion Tim, riveting/drilling shoe linings is something Iâve NEVER done before. What you suggest is what I was thinking. I just wanted to hear what the forum would say.I will probably glue the loose lining back into position with clamps, leave to set before drilling and riveting. There are 8 rivet holes in each shoe so I guess it would be foolish not to fit 8 rivets to both shoes. I donât want to chances with my brakes!All advice will be gratefully received.Thanks, Alan

Permalink

Previously Alan Throssell wrote:

Previously tim_gostling wrote:

Hello Alan, Think I'd err toward rivets, but no harm in bonding aswell. If you just use glue & it fails,..... could be a bit nasty. If you rivet, don't counter bore the friction material too deep, leave a reasonable thikness so the rivet head can't pull through, but I'm probably teaching granny to suck eggs there.

Regards, Tim

Thanks for your opinion Tim, riveting/drilling shoe linings is something Iâve NEVER done before. What you suggest is what I was thinking. I just wanted to hear what the forum would say.I will probably glue the loose lining back into position with clamps, leave to set before drilling and riveting. There are 8 rivet holes in each shoe so I guess it would be foolish not to fit 8 rivets to both shoes. I donât want to chances with my brakes!All advice will be gratefully received.Thanks, Alan Back "in the day" I always rivetted my own linings , as long as they are tightly clamped and work from the center outwards ,should not be any problem.

Permalink

Can you get hold of the correct rivets, Alan? Don't bother just glueing, it won't hold. When the linings are bonded on, they should be using the same process as that which disc brake pads are bonded with, a very different process from glue which you or I would use. I have just had the same experience, on the rear drum of my Matchless trials bike, whilst riding around the lanes. The back wheel locked, and I could not even push the bike, let alone ride it home. Imagine that was your front wheel, locking up at 70 mph on German roads.... forget it. This is your front brake. Those shoes are 9 years old! I can't believe you are even asking this question! You have 2 weeks, so just buy some new ones, they only cost £25.

Ian

Permalink

Previously ian_cordes wrote:

Can you get hold of the correct rivets, Alan? Don't bother just glueing, it won't hold. When the linings are bonded on, they should be using the same process as that which disc brake pads are bonded with, a very different process from glue which you or I would use. I have just had the same experience, on the rear drum of my Matchless trials bike, whilst riding around the lanes. The back wheel locked, and I could not even push the bike, let alone ride it home. Imagine that was your front wheel, locking up at 70 mph on German roads.... forget it. This is your front brake. Those shoes are 9 years old! I can't believe you are even asking this question! You have 2 weeks, so just buy some new ones, they only cost £25.

Ian

Riveting is not that straightforward either. You have to counterbore the holes to the right depth so the rivets are below the surface by the right amount. Also you need the right amount of lining thickness in the counterbore for the rivet to grip. You probably cannot do this with worn linings.

Permalink

I understand Alan's wish not to replace efficient turned-to-diameter shoes with an off the shelf replacement which is likely to be less effective but I too fear that used, contaminated shoes are unlikely to bond safely and rivetting with a variable thickness would require experience and judgment...not to mention correct sized rivets and lining drill.

I fear that if time is too short, the only realistic answer is to put ready-made shoes in and get the originals properly re-lined. There might even be an improvement !

Permalink

Thanks for all your different advice, I canât fit "off the shelf" shoes because I have had the drum skimmed, the diameter of standard shoes is too small.1. With standard shoes the cams are too angled once the brake is applied and could lock on. I know I originally tried to use them.2. If I fitted shims between the cam and shoe to get over this problem the shoe is still the wrong diameter so would take for ever to wear in. Only a small area in the middle would make contact with the drum.3. Because the drum has been skimmed larger than standard the only option is custom made shoes with oversize linings (or obviously a brand new front hub would be best).

I have got the correct copper rivets for the job, the counter-bore tool I have not got but hope to be able to borrow one. Iâm aware of the depth the counter-bore needs to be. Please remember these shoes have oversize linings already and although theyâve seen plenty of use they are still thicker than new standard shoes.

Maybe my original question should have been. âIs there a glue that can be used to save rivitingâ? I now realise that was a stupid thought.blush

Regards, Alan

Permalink

The hub in question is quite common. I see at least a half dozen at every auto jumble. Also the SLS brakes are still affordable. I have an embarrassing number of these because I buy boxes full of random parts. Surely someone in your neighbourhood has a wheel ready to go and can lend it to you.

Permalink

Just to let you all know, I managed to drill, counter-bore and rivet the lining successfully tonight. Iâm confident it will be fine for many more miles now. But I will be on the look out for a replacement front hub or complete wheel that is in good condition and doesnât need skimming.Thanks for every ones input.Regards, Alan

Permalink

Got a drum braked Commando front wheel sitting here - hub great, chrome starting to go. It's a pity it's a long way from Scotland to Essex.

Permalink

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Got a drum braked Commando front wheel sitting here - hub great, chrome starting to go. It's a pity it's a long way from Scotland to Essex

Hi Gordon, I've sent you a private message, hope you receive it.

Regards, Alan

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans