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A few questions!

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i have a few jobs on the go at the moment,

1. Iâve just replaced the sleeve gear oil seal on my 64 jubilee, that only seals the spacer Iâm thinking of putting some silicone between the gearbox sprocket and the spacer and on the splines to try and stop oil leaking from between the spacer and mainshaft. Or is there an other solution.

Iâm also trying to change the drive side crank oil seal, any tips on fitting it, it seems to be a pig! Heat will be my next try.

2. Iâm rebuildimg a gearbox (early) on my Navi engine, I have replaced the layshaft bush and pegged it, and replaced the mainshaft and sleeve gear bearing. All gears select with a screw driver if I move the ratchet arm on the end of the cam plate arm, but when I put the selector shaft on I donât seem to get enough movement to go beyond second gear. Itâs like thevlever doesnât move far enough. Iâm stripping it again tomorrow but any ideas?

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You are probably already aware of this but make sure the gears are in neutral before slotting on the outer cover. It always was a bit of a cowboy gear change but oddly enough it normally works passably well when actually running. One old time mechanic told me they really only worked properly when the engine was running and the gars were whizzing around in oil; and they baulked badly when stationary especially if dry.

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Thanks Patrick, I didnât know about neutral, Iâll give that a go, fortunately itâs pretty easy to disassemble!

The drive side crank seal is being a PITA mostly because previous owners have hit the edge of the cases presumably to retain the seal, and I donât want to get an filings into the bearings. Itâs made no easier by the fact you canât get a socket over it because of the crank, my usual collection of plastic tubes donât work, the seal just pivots !

dan

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I had exactly the same problem doing my drive side crankshaft seal last week Dan because someone had peened the seal in place. The first new seal was a nightmare to drift into place and even then showed signs of oil weeping past the joint between the crank case and outer circumference of the seal after it had been standing for a couple of weeks and had wet sumped. I removed the new seal (wreaking it of course!) and gently used a copper scrapper to ease where the crank case had been peened which avoided using a file. I then found a car axle stand with the right diameter tube to fit the seal to use as a drift. To make sure of a good seal I used a wipe of Lockseal on the outer circumference of the seal and carefully drifted it into place. Since then I have covered over 100 miles with no sign of leaking thank goodness! I am trusting that when I have to remove it in the future the Lockseal wont stop me levering it careful out....

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I had exactly the same problem doing my drive side crankshaft seal last week Dan because someone had peened the seal in place. The first new seal was a nightmare to drift into place and even then showed signs of oil weeping past the joint between the crank case and outer circumference of the seal after it had been standing for a couple of weeks and had wet sumped. I removed the new seal (wreaking it of course!) and gently used a copper scrapper to ease where the crank case had been peened which avoided using a file. I then found a car axle stand with the right diameter tube to fit the seal to use as a drift. To make sure of a good seal I used a wipe of Lockseal on the outer circumference of the seal and carefully drifted it into place. Since then I have covered over 100 miles with no sign of leaking thank goodness! I am trusting that when I have to remove it in the future the Lockseal wont stop me levering it careful out....

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Damn I didnât think of an axle stand! In the end I packed between the bearing and crank with tissue and then like you scraped (an filed a bit) to get it true, the seal then went in with the help of a plastic drain pipe. The seal in the inner chain case was a doddle in comparison! Iâm just about to fill up with oil and see how she goes. Still it keeps me out of mischief!

 


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