ES2 cast iron head

Gordon,

Roy Bacons Norton Singles gives 1955 as the change to a "light alloy head" on the ES2.

Sorry can't help on the headsteady.

Iain

Previously wrote:

I have an ES2 with a 1950 engine (number E427...) in a 1957 frame (number M978...). The cylinder head appears to be cast iron. Does anyone know if this is correct for a 1950 engine? If so, when was the change to an aluminium head?

My 'Maintenance Manual' is from 1957 and deals with the aluminium head. So I'm not sure if I should use a Champion L5 or N4 plug in the iron head.

Finally, there is no evidence of any kind of head steady in my machine. Should there be?

I would be grateful for any help/advice or comments.

Thanks

Gordon Smith

hello gordon If this A 1950 Engine It will Have A cast Iron Cylinder Head And There Sould Be A Head Steady ? AS for Champion L5 Stort reach Or N5 Long Reach itdepens on the lenth of the threds on the cylinder head ? Hope This may Help ? yours Anna J Dixon

Previously wrote:

I have an ES2 with a 1950 engine (number E427...) in a 1957 frame (number M978...). The cylinder head appears to be cast iron. Does anyone know if this is correct for a 1950 engine? If so, when was the change to an aluminium head?

My 'Maintenance Manual' is from 1957 and deals with the aluminium head. So I'm not sure if I should use a Champion L5 or N4 plug in the iron head.

Finally, there is no evidence of any kind of head steady in my machine. Should there be?

I would be grateful for any help/advice or comments.

Thanks

Gordon Smith

Hello Gordon,

As all ready mentioned the switch to Alloy Head for the ES2 was 1955, I do not recall any iron heads with a head steady? I stand to be corrected. The original fitment plug for the iron head ES2is "KLG F70" (14mm thread 1/2" reach) The Champion equivalent being L88, L88a, L86c or L86, I personally use L86c with excellent results, however you will need to experiment with what plug suits your particular engine, i.e. you might want to go hotter or colder depending on the colour ofporcelain tip and ground strap. Hope this helps.

Hello Gordon,

I have a 1958 model 19S and it did not have a head steady as far as I can determine from my Norton handbooks, however I have an aversion to "white finger" after a long ride at freeway speeds, I made up my own head steady and after fitting it I noted a considerable decrease in the shakes department, I have also fitted brass weights inside the handle bar ends and fitted a 21 tooth gearbox and 20 tooth engine sprockets, raising the buzzing region to speed ranges I rarely travel at, admittedly the bike has a 626cc engine that pulls the gearing easily and I have been able to get away without a lot of throttle and slipping the clutch, in fact it has made little difference in the general performance of the bike.

I believe a head steady can prevent disastrous engine failures, a friend of mine and I built up a BSA A65 for road racing, this had gone into a special frame intended for the Benelli 650 twin, the bike was gorgeous and went very well indeed, at its last race appearance, the entire cylinder barrel and head assembly broke off the top of the crankcases, not the cylinder flange, the crankcases! I don't recall if he'd fitted a head steady or not but, I'd bet a case of good ale that he hadn't and a very quick BSA broke, he now has a Triumph T140 in the bike.

Regards,

Albert.

Hi Gordon,

They were not originally fitted, but like James suggests - if it makes a difference, try giving it a go.

However, if you are getting excess vibration, I would suggest maybe a bottom end stripdown sometime in the future may pay dividends, in case your flywheels are no longer fully connected with the bit that sits in the middle of them!

Cast iron cylinder head standard, very good for holding shed doors open when the fins have broken off . . .

Long reach plug, Champion N4 if I remember correctly from the days when I use to use them - but I only fit NGK's now(7 being equivelant in heat range I think)

cheers,

Paul Norman

www.racingvincent.co.uk

ps - on subject of head steadies - I once saw a blown Rudge in the pits, where someone had beforehand wound a large whit bolt between the head and top frame tube . . . following the blow up, the steering geometry looked suitable for a trial bike. You shouldent laff really, but sometimes . . .