Engine Installation

Reverse of your disassembly, less weight to lift, more room and easier to not knock the frame.

Hi,

I had my engine out and re-installed it last week. I took the decision to install with the head and front iso on as I had previously found fitting the head in the frame and getting the pushrods installedwas a PITA. I am on the small side but had no real problems getting it in with the help of a jack. The rolling chassis was not on a bench.

If I had to do it again I would do itthe same way.

Good luck whichever way you go,

Graham

It depends how strong you are.... When I was a youth I'd have no trouble doing this - I wouldn't try it now. One way might be to rig a block and tackle if you have a convenient beam above. Or enlist the help of a couple of strong lads....

This is my recollection from 3 years ago. Apologies for any errors! If the bike is on a lifting stand this gimcrack method may not be practical

One photo shows the engne ready for removal being supported in the frame by a ratchet tie down strap. The strap is the key to controlling the engine.

The other shows the same setup I used to get the fully assembled engine back in. I had already reinstalled the gearbox cradle, gearbox and swinging arm but had left the front engine mount out. As can be seen I had fixed a batten across the frame, supported by the jack and zip tied to the frame to prevent it moving. This allowed me to lift the complete engine onto the batten and slide/wrestle into place. Once there, my wife held the engine upright while I put the tie down strap round the lower of the 2 top frame tubes and under the crankcase and tensioned it enough to hold the engine in place. Once the batten has been taken out, the engine can be swung back and forth quite easily and was quite securely held. This gives time to plan the next move! Up and down was managed by putting the jack under the crankcase and adjusting the tension on the strap accordingly. I remember that quite a bit of jockying was needed to get the crankcase into the gearbox cradle so the studs could be fitted. This procedure is not aided by the gearbox cradle being able to rotate back and forth on its iso mount at the same time

Next, fit the front iso mounting. This required a bit of juggling to get it into the frame and I seem to remember that lifting the engine slightly, (or it may have been lowering it), with the strap made it easier. Once the mount is attached the strap can be removed and the top mount fitted.

I must say that 2 people are needed to refit the engine, although I did get it out single handedly.

Good luck.

Bob Haslam

Previously john_neely wrote:

Many thanks for the advice will think this one through a bit more, great pictures thank you.

I hung my engine with a gimble on an extended engine crane. I had the swining am pulled back with a strap. I manoeuvred the engine in to position attaching the front mount and strapped head to front frame tubes. Then removed crane and gradually releasing straps swung engine and cradle in to meet each other. I have pictures but files too big for here.

The cradle pivots on the rear isolastic mount Anti clockwise and the engine on the front the same way and they slot together.

Can't you lay the engine on its side, then drop the frame over it? On the basis that the frame is easier to manoeuvre than the engine..... just a thought.

I've always installed the engine complete, after I bent pushrods in the early days removing the head in the frame.