Disc brake front wheel removal

Previously david_evans wrote:

With a AP lockheed caliper and RGM adaptor plate, removing the front wheel to repair a puncture is a painful process when it comes to taking away the disc caliper adaptor plate. The nuts are all obscured by the wheel, disc, plate, caliper etc. My plan is to helicoil the caliper (10mm) and dispense with the nuts. Can anybody see why this would not be a good idea?

Hi Dave, the pull out load of the steel bolts from the nuts will be higher than a tapped thread in the caliper casting. The nut and bolts clamping on the caliper lug bosses will make the weakest part the smallest section where the boss joins the casting.

If you tapped the casting the load would be across the smaller section of the boss either side of the tapped hole.

It would be a weaker fixing, I do not think I would want to risk it, it would take a stress enginer to work out if it was strong enough.

Previously david_evans wrote:

Hi Chris,

I see your point, the other thing I might do is make a plate to slip behind the caliper with the 10mm threads in it.

You could try a C spaner shape with a nut each end. Its not easy getting the wheels out of some bikes. Some of the older bikes had stands front (mudguard stay) and rear. I find its not to bad in the garrage with the bike lift, electric hoist, large blocks of wood and a jack. Not so easy on the side of the road.

A Thames Valley member has got "Slime" in his wheels and had it work with a puncture.I have been carrying a container of it and a co2 inflation kit. If it fails its call the AA.

I wonder if any one else has any experience of "Slime".

Previously david_evans wrote:

With a AP lockheed caliper and RGM adaptor plate, removing the front wheel to repair a puncture is a painful process when it comes to taking away the disc caliper adaptor plate. The nuts are all obscured by the wheel, disc, plate, caliper etc. My plan is to helicoil the caliper (10mm) and dispense with the nuts. Can anybody see why this would not be a good idea?

Sorry am I missing something here, Why do you believe it necessary to remove any part of the braking system to allow removal of the front wheel?

I have the same/similar set-up on my bike and took the front wheel to my local dealer recently for a new tyre. Didn't remove the brake adaptor plate/caliper for that.

Regards

Roger

I'm not an engineer, but it seems to me that a helicoil will not be as strong as a nut and bolt. If helicoiling the caliper was the better way, why didn't they make it like that in the first place?

I do agree, though, that it is awkward to remove the wheel with a setup as you describe. My bike is a Mk3 with RGM caliper bracket and Grimeca caliper, so physically similar.

When I need to remove the wheel, I put 2" thick blocks of wood under the centre stand feet, and the wheel will then drop straight out as soon as the spindle is removed.

Maybe not too practical at the roadside........

Is the problem worth the time effort and worry about if the modified parts are up to the job? Better to find a suitable spanner to hold the nut and I use a pair of long nose pliers to get nut into place an hold it as you thread bolt in by turning that with your other hand.

How many times do you take the front or rear wheels out at the side of the road or in the comfort of your own home/garage/shed ? A friend of mine is paranoid about punctures an has had one 15 years ago amd one in the late 1970s. Tyres and tubes are hopefully improved over the years and in many thousands of miles I touch wood have had none on bikes and only one in a car.

The biggest problem is normally undoing the wheel spindle of a bike without a large tool which is most likely to be to bulky to fit in the bikes tool box. So if the worst ever did happen you will need a spanner or such that is at home or be calling for help from a friend or recovery service anyway.