Clutch replacement

Do a search online for proper Norton manual. There are freePDF files online but I don't have links. If you have the Haynes I can sympathise but I dont think you will find the correct factory manual any better if its your 'First time'!! Unlike Triumphs I have not seen much on YT regarding Commando rebuilds. There is alwaysMick Hemmings video but that's with the gearbox out I believe. All I can offeris:

Buy/borrow a clutch compressor and front sprocket puller. **Don't think of peeling the main clutch circlip out without one**

Replace the gearbox shaft circlip and torque clutch nut to 40ft/lbs with a few drops of studlock on the threads. Ignore the torque spec.

Use a smear of sealant on the bolts holding inner case to engine and under/over the tab washers. I fit the tabs but don't bend them over......my personal thing only.

and while it's apart....

Replace the gearbox seal ringas it may be well grooved and wear the new seal quickly.

Replace the engine oil seal.

Check the front sprocket to clutch alignment.

Fit the inner cover without sealant but with gasket and leaving any shim washers off the central post tighten the three bolts and run a feeler guage between the mounting post and boss. That will give you the shim thickness needed so that when the outer cover is bolted up the two halves are brought together without any stress on the case/inner coveretc. Sounds odd but you'll see what's needed. When it's shimmed nicely you can assemble with sealant etc. Watch the torque on the 3 bolts, they are in factory helicoils but don't go crazy.

Minimum parts are: Engine and gearbox oilseals, oilseal ring, inner cover gasket, new tab washers, large 'O' ring sectionseal for covers, mainshaft to clutch circlip, new washer and tab washer for clutch to mainshaft. I use the tab but don't bend it, just studlock and 40ft/lbs.

Other things you can do are putting a 0.030" deep groove in the pushrod 1" in from gearbox end and fitting an .040" section 'O' ring to prevent gearoil migration. Alternatively fit a 'Dynodave' oilseal there. If you don't touch the pushrod leave it in place keeping pressureagainst the gearbox release mechanism. If not the lever in the box outer cover can drop and you will have to remove the inspection cover to reposition.

Use the Andover Norton site for exploded views and parts etc.

On the clutch if you were happy with the force and weight of it measure the stack height you have and try and duplicate. Personally I use 4 steel, 4 Surflex and a std cast iron pressure plate. With a slippery Venhill cable its two strong fingers and no slip. Finally when you adjsut the clutch, loosen the bar lever right off, screw in the clutch diapraghm mounted adjuster and take up all slack until the spring starts to move. Then, back off 1/4 to 3/8 turn. Follow the factory or Haynes instructions and it'll never release, well not in my experience!

You don't say where you are but is there not someone local you could get advice from? None of it is rocket stuff but with these oldish machines there are ways of doing things!

You did ask! Good luck.

Try this site....... www.doov.com/apps/nortoncompanion/

Go to upgrades and 520 chain mod. Looks like a blow by blow on primary and clutch R & R. I've not looked at it all though.

Manual here.......rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norton_workshop/