Clutch adjustment woes

If you are working on your own, lay over the seat from the RHS and use two hands on the spanner and loosen the nut. Easier with a helper. Question is why are you needing to undo the clutch nut or do you mean the clutch push rod adjuster lock nut andadjustingscrew?

If it's just the pushrod adjuster nut then it shouldn't need much force to loosen it as it's only nipped up whilst holding the adjuster with a slotted screwdriver. If that can overcome your rear brake then I'd suggest it's time to look inside the brake.

In practice, even without the brake on, a substantial spanner and a sharp tap from a copper hammer should loosen it.

Don't do up the adjuster nut too tight after completing adjustment of the slotted adjuster. I used give myself the same problem afterreally givingthat nutsome wellyfollowing clutch pushrod adjustment thinking it might come loose whilst riding - then realised it doesn't even with only a light "nip up".

Don't do up the adjuster nut too tight after completing adjustment of the slotted adjuster. I used give myself the same problem afterreally givingthat nutsome wellyfollowing clutch pushrod adjustment thinking it might come loose whilst riding - then realised it doesn't even with only a light "nip up".

When you are stepping on the brake to hold the drum, which gear are you in? Try third or forth gear.

Mike

This may be a bit weaney but has anyone got a workable wheeze for loosening off the clutch nut prior to adjustment?My system is to put the bike in gear,wedge the back drum brake on and give it some with a socket and T bar. Result? not a lot. The whole plot just goes round. This method usually involves "trying to take the nut by "surprise" with ajaring and ajolting. Still no joy. A cunning plan anyone?

Go to one of the big classic bike shows - buy a small compressor, then buy a air impact wrench - turn up second hand now and again.Connect the compressor to 240v, attach the wrench to the compressor, fit correct socket, ensure anticlockwise direction and apply tool to nut - spins off. Good for doing up as well. What location you at - come anduse mine - I'm near Brighton?

Sorry to bring up this old thread.

Sorry to bring up an old thread.I'm also having troubles with this... The manual says you should feel with the finger there there is "slight movement", now, thats relative isn't it? how much is "slight"?

I'm getting at least 7mm movement. So i've tried 2nd and 3rd gear, rear brake on, "surprise" wrench, no luck. Usually this works on my other bikes.... not this time, and I don't have a compressor or a bike stand to check the rear brake... Any advice?ThanksRich.

Rich

I'm in Basingstoke. If you're local maybe I can help you... message me.

Phil

Probably should have addressed this to Alec ... elderly confusion .. well it IS 06.47 on a Sunday morning!

Phil

Morning! Nothing wrong with checking forums in the morning! I've been up since 5:30 anyways cuz my little boy won't sleep. So it's actually nearly lunch time for me in theory (I'm an hour ahead)

I'm in Dresden Germany btw, No where near anyone i know who owns a Norton.

You need a impact driver or air gun to shock it loose before it realises its on too tight.

How ironic, I'm also struggling with this today...

In 1st, adjustment clutch lock nut & clutch plates turning when I try to undo.

I can't get a higher gear, no movement from gearbox (don't know why yet) - was working ok before the primary came off, I certainly don't have finance to buy a compressor

Likely to be writing further posts, this saga started because I couldn't get the bike started, thought clutch might be sticking & cleaning the plates is usually straightforward!.

Any ideas welcome, frustratingly working away so can't retry until Friday, so gathering ideas in the meantime.

Regards

Mike

Doh! - should have mentioned Mk III Commando!

Regards

Mike

Previously alec_stevens wrote:

This may be a bit weaney but has anyone got a workable wheeze for loosening off the clutch nut prior to adjustment?My system is to put the bike in gear,wedge the back drum brake on and give it some with a socket and T bar. Result? not a lot. The whole plot just goes round. This method usually involves "trying to take the nut by "surprise" with ajaring and ajolting. Still no joy. A cunning plan anyone?

I love that "trying to take the nut by surprise"I can relate.

Previously mike_sullivan wrote:

How ironic, I'm also struggling with this today...

In 1st, adjustment clutch lock nut & clutch plates turning when I try to undo.

I can't get a higher gear, no movement from gearbox (don't know why yet) - was working ok before the primary came off, I certainly don't have finance to buy a compressor

Likely to be writing further posts, this saga started because I couldn't get the bike started, thought clutch might be sticking & cleaning the plates is usually straightforward!.

Any ideas welcome, frustratingly working away so can't retry until Friday, so gathering ideas in the meantime.

Regards

Mike

If you go on Andover Norton web site and look at the clutch you will see the Clutch Diaphragm Spring is just a round spring plate and boss, no mechanical drive teeth. So to hold still with correct fitting screwdriver and slacken lock nut I correct method. If the nut is seized you could try holding the boss still. If you wash the clutch off you may get more friction but I would say you are better of holding the boss still. Try a strap wrench, large hose clip to give something to grip then use a cranked ring spanner and give a sharp crack with a mallet.

.

So while we're trying to solve the but problem , can someone tell me what "slight movement" is? I'm talking about the cable rod on the right hand cover.

I checked, there is a good 7mm movement in mine. That's not "slight" movement is it? Or am i over thinking it?

Thx

I normally work on 3 to 4 mm movement between the cable actuating arm and clutch pushrod , so 7 mm sounds a bit too much. But if your clutch is not dragging with gear changes normal when you declutch , and you can select neutral with engine running then you are still OK. However , a clutch adjustment to reduce the free movement should probably be done at some stage.

Previously richard_chan wrote:

Sorry to bring up an old thread.I'm also having troubles with this... The manual says you should feel with the finger there there is "slight movement", now, thats relative isn't it? how much is "slight"?

I'm getting at least 7mm movement. So i've tried 2nd and 3rd gear, rear brake on, "surprise" wrench, no luck. Usually this works on my other bikes.... not this time, and I don't have a compressor or a bike stand to check the rear brake... Any advice?ThanksRich.

I use Mole Grips on the centre boss. You can put as much force on the nut as you like then.

I would slacken off the cable so it has no part in the adjustment. Screw the clutch adjusting screw in until it just stops, back it off by one complete turn and nip up with the locking nut, then adjust the cable to give about 2mm of slack in the cable. If the lock nut is jammed, centre punch between a flat on the nut and the thread, drill with a 3 or 4mm drill until you know you have gone through the nut. with a small sharp chisel, (like the one you made in the metalwork class at school) give it a sharp tap to split the nut, undo, replace. You could do all this with the primary chain case in situ with some of the kids plasticine to collect the swarf. (don't give it back to the kids to play with)

Adjuster lock nut removed using a variation on David's suggested method. I used a Dremel with diskcutter & put a deep channel in the nut close to the adjuster. Using a wheel bracewith the socket I gave it a quick jerk &the nutcame free.

Unfortunately I grazed the adjuster threads with the cutter,the important thing though is that the clutch is nowdismantled & a clutch adjuster is only a fiver a cheap investment to avoid a 200 kilo paperweight; a couple of the bronze plates were well stuck to their steel bedfellows - bad hombres!

Mike (Mk III)

Those little dremmel disc cutters are a brilliant piece of kit. The fibre clutch plates have a habit of sticking if assembled dry and left to their own devices for a bit. The bronze ones generally not so bad but as you've found out, same applies.