Alton starter/ RGM belt drive

I to have the 32mm RGM belt drive and Alton Ekit it also has a Maney outrigger bearing. That ment cutting the gearbox area of the Atlon inner case (deep breath and cutting disc in angle grinder). I had to also relieve as you did for the crank pulley so after drawing around it i used a flat sanding disc in a die grinder (but an electric drill or dremel would work). Alton supplied me with a spacer after i contacted them an so not modify of pulley was needed. Same size battery as you to.

Three years later and all is well. Push button starting is reliable and even this year's increase in compression to a genuine (measured na checked) 9 to 1 though it does sometimes stop the starter (no often just if to close to compression when push button) just release button an press again for spin up and fire up hot or cold on straight 50 oil. Only use for kick starter is turn engine for tappets or timing check etc. and i cant kick it over with plugs in never mind start it but Ekit can.

Try 20-50 oil, it will kick over so much easier!

From an engineering point of view, grinding or disc cutting aluminium is not a good idea. Grinding wheels operate by oxidising ferrous metals. This doesn't happen with aluminium. Grinding wheels will clog and break up or bits of metal will fly off. Offhand grinders and disc grinders are probably the most dangerous machines in the workshop.

Previously donald_tovey wrote:

Just fitted an Alton electric start kit to my 72 Interstate 750. I have an RGM belt drive on it too.

Not a straight forward fitment but can be done with some machining.

I had to get a friend with a milling machine to take 2.5 mm off the inside of the Alton chain case to allow the front pulley and back plate to tighten fully on the tapered shaft. A 105 mm diameter circle minimum will do. Next I had to machine 11 mm off the inner part of the front pulley too allow the spacer Alton supply with their kit ( this can also be done with a Norvil belt drive pulley. I also had to have the hole in the centre of the belt side guide made bigger to fit around the Alton spacer. Then I had to have holes drilled in the outer belt guide to screw it to the pulley so it looks like the crankcase side of the pulley. After these mods it was fairly plain sailing. Luckily I have a friend who is a skilled engineer and has a lathe and milling machine. I am going to put a PDF together with photos of the alterations and fitting procedure I used. If anyone wants a copy of the PDF just message me through this sight and I will email you a copy once I have completed the instructions. Once I had fitted the kit with a new 18 amp battery the bike started 1 st press of the button. Makes it so much easier to start with my knackered knees.

One thing I don't understand, is this kit made to fit a commando? If it is why the need for all this machining?

Roger

Because it's designed for a standard Commando with a chain primary drive. Donald has a belt drive on his and has modified the various parts to fit and work.

The RGM belt is 32mm wide and it has been said on Access Norton site that belts of 30mm or less fit the Alton with little or no problem or need for modifications.

My own RGM belt and Alton Ekit work fine with few bits of trimming and as i said contact Alton as for some of the more popular belt conversion they can (and did for me at least) supply the all important spacer of the correct size.

does a steve manney belt fit ok

Like Don I also have recently fitted the Altonstarter to my 1969 fastback . I have been running on an RGM belt set up for many years and never experienced any problems . My clutch is one of the lightest to operate Vis two finger pull . I run on Sureflex plates and the chaincase is dry .( no oil ). I have concerns about lack of lubrication (other than a slight smear of grease from new ) to the Sprag clutch as its not a sealed unit , and have asked Alton for their or their manufacturers recommendations . I prefer not to revert back to a "wet" chaincase . Has anyone experience of running an Alton unit "DRY".

Previously david_evans wrote:

Because it's designed for a standard Commando with a chain primary drive. Donald has a belt drive on his and has modified the various parts to fit and work.

David , the new inner chain case Alton supply is much thicker (several mms ) and therefore more rigid than the original Norton case . In Dons case I machined 2.5mm from the inside to permit the front pulley to fit and clear the casting . On my set up I had to remove 3mm . I also had to machine the outside rear ofmycasting to ensure it cleared the swinging arm end cap . If fitted to a standard chain drive none of these modifications are necessary as it was designed for this set up, although I have heard of one or two people who have experienced some problems , requiring a bit of adjustment / fitting to get the unit to work .

Hi Barry, I was just answering Roger Johnson's question about the requirements for machining. I'm quite familiar with the process. A Lathe and milling machine are a distinct advantage when it comes to owning a Commando. (but not angle grinding aluminium)

I haven't yet fitted either the Alton or belt drive conversion to my 74 Roadster yet but I intend to do both together so what is the best belt and Alton combination to go for in order to minimise the installation modifications required?

Thanks

Martyn

Previously martyn_hambling wrote:

I haven't yet fitted either the Alton or belt drive conversion to my 74 Roadster yet but I intend to do both together so what is the best belt and Alton combination to go for in order to minimise the installation modifications required?

Thanks

Martyn

Hi Martyn. I am not sure which is the best belt drive but I have the RGM version and their current front pulley is machined ready for the Alton e kit. You may need to machine a few other bits to fit it but myself or Barrie will be able to advise on what needs doing. A friend of ours has the NORVIL belt drive and he has had some problems with belts shredding but it may not be due to quality of the belt. I have always been happy with my RGM belt drive and would buy one again if I needed one. Not sure of your geographic location but if your localish you could view mine if need be.

Thanks Don that's useful information and very kind of you too, I'm in Cheddar Somerset.

The down side of Roger spending all his time on this electric foot is that other out of stock items are not being made. Stainless pushrod tubes for example! Still, they reckon it will be all over by Christmas.

Now where have I heard that saying before?

Looking at the photo in Roadholder the RGM will be similar to the Old Britts version they used to do, this had a gearwheel on the back of the clutch and a starter with a moving gear that came out to engage the gearwheel. This again is very similar to the T160 setup. No need for a sprag clutch as the starter gear only engages with the button pressed, downside will be the interference with the stock air filter especially the black plastic airbox so that will need to be factored in.