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Alton alternator on a 1949 ES2 problem :-(

Submitted by simon_amos on Thu, 12/09/2013
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Having had a load of issues with my old dynamo and voltage regulator I decided to bite the bullet and go for an Alton alternator.

The installation was very straight forward and I double/triple checked everything before starting her up.

Unfortunately the installation was not a success. I have double checked everything again and talked it through with a friend who has also carried out the upgrade on his AJS 500 single. Everything I have done seems correct.

I have been in touch with Alton (VERY HELPFUL) and have carried out a number of tests and the Alton & the Podtronics appear to be OK.

When the Alton is fitted to the bike, with the engine running it only produced 6-9 volts whereas when I remove it and do a bench test using a drill, it produces 8 volts at approx 1200 rpm and 20 volts at 2000+ rpm. Alton are happy with these bench test figures.

This makes me thing that my bike is not producing enough rpm to generate the correct voltage.

Looking through the hole in the rear of the casing, I can see that the fiber gear looks OK and is rotating nicely when I manually turn over the engine.

Now I wonder if the star shaped clutch could be slipping (I would be surprised if it was) or ....... goodness knows what.

I was hoping not to have to remove the timing cover, chain etc etc, but it looks as though I will be.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Ian

Submitted by gordon_johnston on Fri, 13/09/2013

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I a guessing you replaced an E3H dynamo (40W output) with an alternator with approx 120W output. Very crudely indeed, you will be putting 3 times the torque through the clutch drive. So that's where I would look. Alton conversions work fine on such things as Velocettes where an E3L is replaced. The function of the clutch is to protect the drive train in event of the dynamo seizing. BSA twinsdo it by having a lightly riveted up sprocket where the rivets shear if the dynamo blows up (not unknown). Velos have a drive band which will fail under the same circumstances.Nortons and other Magdyno bikes use the preloaded clutch, as indeed does my New Holland baler to protect against overload. I would check by locking up the clutch in some way and see if you get the required output. Then it's up to you if you keep it locked ot just up the preload to stop slip but still provide protection in event of a failure - which is pretty unlikely really. Gordon.

Submitted by simon_amos on Fri, 13/09/2013

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GordonThanks for that.Your comments about the clutch are what I was suspecting when I originally fitted the Alton. I was rather hoping not to have to start dismantling the timing side again, but ... guess what I'll be doing this morning :)You refer to locking up the clutch, is there a "preferred" way of doing this?RegardsIan

Submitted by simon_amos on Fri, 13/09/2013

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Previously darren_logan wrote:

Sorry I can't help,didn't even know they made one,but I would like to see a pic

Darren

I will post a couple of pictures and report back on progress laterRegardsIan

Submitted by paul_knapp on Fri, 13/09/2013

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I would also suspect the safety clutch (which is there to stop the fiber gear having a hard time when the engine kicks back) There is a pre-load nut holding the diagphram spring, maybe this needs tightening somewhat to give more spring tension. Also, there maybe oil on the friction plate.

Paul

Submitted by simon_amos on Fri, 13/09/2013

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SUCCESS !!!! ... I think

The clutch was definitely the problem.

All reassembled and I carried out the tests Alton wantedme to do before connecting up the Podtronics and got the 20 volts theyexpected.

Connected up the Podtronics, started the engine, turnedon the headlights, ammeter showed a discharge, revved up the engine, needledmoved over central and over to charging.

Lights really bright and the horn ... well I can hear itover the engine noise for the first time.

Let the engine go back to tick-over and the lights dim abit ... just as I would have hoped.

The only problem that I will need to resolve is the studon the backing plate behind the clutch that locks the locking washer has comeloose. I have used lock-tight on the nut for the time being but willinvestigate rectifying this ASAP.

Thanks so much for your:

Help,Guidance,Encouragement,etc.

TTFNIan

Submitted by simon_amos on Fri, 13/09/2013

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As promised, here are the pictures of finished installationthe Previously Ian Richards wrote:
Previously darren_logan wrote:

Sorry I can't help,didn't even know they made one,but I would like to see a pic

Darren

I will post a couple of pictures and report back on progress laterRegardsIan
Attachments 1.jpg 2-jpg

Submitted by tony_harris on Fri, 13/09/2013

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Hi Ian

I run a 12v Alton alternator on My 500 VH Ariel. The mag is a replica of the MO1 which I made and developed when I owned BT-H magnets.

Peter the new owner( 01234 880605) can supply you with a new clutch assembly and gear if you wish. The new thrust springs I had made a few though thicker than the original Lucas ones they are also new not 50+years old. I would change the gear as well. These are made of the correct material not like the cheap Indian ones you see on Ebay.

I have had no charging problems and I run H4 bulbs sat nav, heated gloves etc.

Regards Tony H

 


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