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1956 Model 50 clutch refurbishment

Submitted by martyn_turner on Wed, 20/11/2013
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I am 85% through a nut and boltrefurbishment of my late father's 1956 Model 50 and am about to refurb the clutch, I have new platesto hand but want to know what else in the clutch dept I should pay attention to. The bike has not turned a wheel for 40 years.

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 20/11/2013

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You can guarantee that the rubber spider in the middle will be a horrible sticky mess glued to the rest of the clutch and almost impossible to remove without resort to some interesting chemistry.

The next most likely problem is notching on the plate tangs but if they are all new you won't need to worry about that one. The friction surfaces clean up remarkably well when thouroughly degreased although if they are the early type [not sure for 1956] they will most likely try to fall out all over the place. If so, you might think about replacing them with a bonded continuous ring of friction material - that's what I am doing with a couple of these older clutches.

Submitted by gordon_johnston on Thu, 21/11/2013

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While you are at it, check that the clutch spider is a good fit in the backplate. You can get wear there. Both items readily available these days.

Submitted by neil_wyatt on Thu, 21/11/2013

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I think the better AMC clutch came infor 1957, the later bonded back plate is much better but remember that the tags (Inner and outer) are reversed on the later clutches. Most the rest is interchangeable.

Another thing to lookout for are score marks on the basket, where the tags engage. You can lightly dress these to give a smoother operation. The good thing about a Model 50 clutch is that it does not need so many plates and therefore not only cheaper to replace but should also be a very light operation. My slimline Model 50 is a joy to ride but some cycle parts on the pre-F/bed models are almost impossible to find, so look after your bits.

Submitted by martyn_turner on Thu, 12/12/2013

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Had a bit of trouble removing theclutch shock absorber cover plate, "prise it off" they said "use a screwdriver twist" they said - no chance. It was a tight fit and bonded to the internal rubber cushes, so tip of the day - I used three very very powerful magnets to lift it out but beware these things bit back!

Next challenge - to remove the old cushes :)

 


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