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1946 Model 18 fuel tank

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Hello, back in the Spring of 2019 I bought a 1946 Model 18 in British Columbia, Canada that had sat, largely unused, for many decades. 

Over the following months I rode it probably 500 miles as I gradually put in some time cleaning, servicing it, all the while getting to know it better. 

The insulation on the existing wiring is crumbling away to the touch, so this winter I am going to rewire it and have the mag/dyno stripped and checked.

I would like to replace the tank; it is original and has a nice patina, but a lot of rust and scale on the inside.

Can anyone confirm that a 1940's 16H or ES2 tank is identical to the one I have?  Has anyone bought a tank from India that was a good fit for a 1946 Model 18?

Greatly appreciate any assistance.

Andy

 

 

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Hi Andrew,

Good on you getting this old gent running again!

I am very surprised the magneto could still get you home again, especially the condenser!

BTW the bottom of the tank looks identical to my 1956 ES2. The fuel cap, knee pads and of course the badges are different. 

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The underneath of the tank is correct for an o.h.v. engine.  Clearance required both sides of the centre line for the rocker box. An ES2 or Model 18 from 1946 - 1950 will fit. A s.v. tank from a 16H will have a hemispherical dome to allow the tank to clear the spark plug.

I940's o.h.v. tanks have the knee pad held on by a single screw. 1951 had a different shaped knee pad held on by two screws

 

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If it’s not leaking or too thin to trust you would be better off getting it refurbished.  Rust and scale  are easily dealt with.  If it’s in the underside you can repair. Top sides look dent free.  A good polish and relining  and you retain your originality.

 

Jon

Thanks Don, that is very useful information.  It helps me narrow the search down with regards to suitable tank replacements. 

So far the only time the bike has let me down on a ride was fuel starvation.  It turned out the inline fuel filter was not up to the job.  My initial miles showed no major mechanical knocks or rattles, and apart from a couple of oil leaks and a failed speedo its is in pretty good shape.  I am going to be more confident on the electrical side, once it has been rewired and the mag/dyno has been refurbished!

In reply to by jonathan_newton

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I am sure this is a conundrum that many other owners have faced.

The original tank has a nice patina, and is reasonable cosmetically, however has some damage to the paint and some small dents near the steering head.  Inside it needs some serious descaling and its possible that the process could further damage the original finish.  If I can find a good replacement tank, and keep the original safe and as-is, I feel that might be the better way forward. 

At least this approach will allow me to ride the bike while still pondering the question!

 

In reply to by jonathan_newton

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I am sure this is a conundrum that many other owners have faced.

The original tank has a nice patina, and is reasonable cosmetically, however has some damage to the paint and some small dents near the steering head.  Inside it needs some serious descaling and its possible that the process could further damage the original finish.  If I can find a good replacement tank, and keep the original safe and as-is, I feel that might be the better way forward. 

At least this approach will allow me to ride the bike while still pondering the question!

 

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What I would do is shake the crap out of it with nut's & bolts then  go down to your local Canadian Tire Store and buy a jug of metal rescue or metal restore.Try to get most of the rust out first.These products will NOT eat your tank like acid does.

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Hi Andy,

   The shape of tank you have was first introduced for 1936 and continued until 1949. From 1950 the capacity was increased and the tank took on a more rounded and modern appearance. All these tanks have the same bolt hole dimensions. Pre 1946 tanks for 16H and Big 4, as Ian R says, had flat bottoms with the inverted dome to clear the spark plug. After WW2 production was rationalised and the OHV type tank was fitted to all SV models. If you are considering buying a new tank, try searching the forum on this subject as I think Phil Hannam bought a replacement Indian made tank and wrote some relevant information. 

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...are the only type that you have to avoid. Part No. 3723, introduced in the 1936 parts list as Richard indicates is listed for all SV and OHV models, including the 350s. The 'Flat bottom tank with recess for sparking plug' was introduced to increase capacity for the military models which then responded by breaking the front tank lugs....Any tank with the dome will be WD. The WD Big 4 had a large cutaway visible from the side, but mostly covered by the knee grip.

All the pre-war SV / OHV civilian tanks will fit although there were also panel and gate change options.

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Hi Richard / Andy,

   Thanks for the clarification on the WD tanks, so many variations !   

Thanks Ian.  The scale I am looking at is a bit weird, it is a rusty discolouration that almost has a shellac sheen to it.  I wonder if at some point in the past someone decided to seal the rust in with a liner, rather than trying to get the rust out.  My concern is that the chemicals needed to shift the corrosion would end up damaging the exterior finish.  I will try and remove as much corrosion as possible, before I seal up the tank openings, put a generous cup of oil inside it and store it away.

Hi Richard, great information, thank you.  I saw Phil Hannam's article in April 2019's Roadholder a while back and read with interest his tribulations.  It sounded as if he did find a reasonable replacement tank, but he didn't reveal who the vendor was.  I will see if I can send him a message and find out who he used.

all great information and I am sure will be very helpful for future users of the singles forum.  I will post a note about my experiences on eBay.....

 


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