1960 Dominator 99 for a old guy

Few bits to go over before you address the exhaust.  If it's possible find out any history; who's was it, why was it parked up.

Any physical damage (front mudguard is missing).  By now the crankcase  will be full of oil unless it's all over the floor and fuel would have evaporated, meaning a full tank fuel line and carburettor clean down.  

Check if the engine is seized and the wheels turn, then it's a matter of addressing each of the issues in turn.  Rubber items will need replacing and all lube related components will need a clean up.   Start of a great journey at a good time of year to proceed if you have a warm place to do it!
Enjoy :-)

Looks very viable .  The pipes "should fit " as the port angle is the same ,however there has been  plenty of pattern pipes with poor shaping and any spare pipes may be spare for a reason !. The saddle is a good one and now  hard to find (impossible) with this orriginal covering and shape. .Front mudguard can be deep valenced or blade type and is the narrow variety for the 7" (i have a spare!), forks  .   Footrests out of position loose?. pipes look useable. Cylinder barrel and pistons  very expensive and hard to find if you have to replace . Carefull with it. If at all possible run as is with possibly new rings if needed. Probably coil ignition with 18d2 distributor Find out why it was laid up.  Very pleasant bike to use once set up. I have one too.

The 1958 header pipes were a little shorter at the rear because the silencers sit further forward, so they might fit or might not.
More contentiously, my personal feeling with time capsule bikes like this is that the temptation to 'get them going' should be resisted for the following reason:- the Dominator, like all the British twins, has a centrifugal sludge trap inside the crankshaft, which with the old "straight' oils could get pretty full, when they have been stood a long time, that sludge can dry out and then break up when you pump fresh oil through it, blocking the oil feed to the drive side big-end and wrecking the engine. I have seen this happen, so my advice would always be to remove the engine, strip it and clean out the sludge-trap. It isn't really difficult and, if nothing else is wrong should not require more than gaskets and the torque bolts and tab washers for the crank. If the trap turns out to be clear, feel free to call me any names you like.
Good luck!

The early engines had a narrow angle between the engine exhaust outlets. The angle was increased later to open out the exhaust ports/pies so more air would flow over the head,
So the exhaust pipes are different.
Make sure you get the correct pair.
At least, that's my understanding of why the items I first got, were not correct.

Dont think the angle changed untill the later  downdraught SS head appeared. Silencers of the Cheroot tube type were the most common in 1960 . I find that Siamese pipes give best midrange power and free up the drive side for maintenance and reduce weight .Finding any pipes that fit as well as the orriginals is a crap shoot!. Kickstart lever is orriginal very strong type ,usually replaced by shiny  poor quality folding one  that FVQ  ! . Handle bars look orriginal and are both comfy to use and better for buying  std cable with correct lengths  and  give cable clearance to fork top nuts which straight bars do not. Orriginal is usually best ,They knew what they were doing!!. Some more photos would help us spot issues.

Hi Nick, 

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Peter