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Ignition timing

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Hello All,

I am quite close to finishing the Navigator.  I have wired it up and now need a battery.  I have fitted a Boyer kit but not done the timing as yet.  The handbook copy gives a figure of 24 degree BTDC.  I am assuming it is just a matter of using a degree disc and lining up strews with holes ala all my other bikes.

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Hello all--me again,

What is the story with the two breather pipes from the back of the oil tank?  One is of a larger diameter than the other--one connects with the engine breather I am assuming--is it the larger one?  Where does the other one go?

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You won't have any real problems with timing.  Use a degree disc as you say to get the engine running then experiment a bit with final timing.  I know the info on the Navigator does say 24 degrees but this figure is a bit suspect and might have been a printing error;  the Jubilee is 32 degrees and the Electra (I think) was quoted as 30.  In practice I advance the Navigator timing to where the engine seems happiest; but don't overdo it.

The second pipe goes to the chaincase; a proper Norton chaincase has a hole in it at the front end for this very purpose- an FB chaincase looks otherwise identical but hasn't got the hole for the breather pipe. But it isn't critical where it goes.

Patrick  

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 I think I used a degree disc and lined it up with the screws initially to get it going then I  used the disc with a strobe to set the timing accurately. 

Dan

In reply to by patrick_mullen

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Thanks Patrick,

I did wonder about the 24 degrees as most British bikes are around 30 something.  Ah--I see a chain oiler--I have one on one Triumph, not that it has ever worked.  I do not as yet have a chaincase.  Cheers

JPA

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All my machines at the moment are all covered up so I can't get to them easily. and I can't find my notes on the oil pipes. So from memory the standard oil tank has the two connections on the top/rear of the oil tank; the one slightly higher up and to the left hand rear is the one going to the chaincase.  I thought the connectors were pretty much the same size.  The De Luxe tank is completely different and has a long neck with a connection on it for the pipe to the chaincase.

You don't have to connect into the chaincase; you can loop it up somewhere neat and let it breathe to atmosphere. At least just for testing.

Patrick

            

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With regard to lightweight timing, you need a fixed pointer in the chaincase and of course a mark on the rotor to coinside (more crappulus spelling-no speely cheeker). I have drawn up a fixed pointer, this is on my web site  aoservices.co.uk   incase you have forgotten, click on the orange icon at the top and find the right pdf Norton lightweight Timing aid. MIght be some other info for lightweight there as well.

AO

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Hi John, a different subject but hoping you can help me. I too am currently attempting to restore my old navigator, on stripping down the engine I checked the timing gear alinement before going any further but am finding that on lining up the camshaft gears using the two dots I don't find any mark on the crankshaft gear which has got me puzzled, there is a small linear mark in the gear but it doesn't line up, any idea's please

Regards Howard

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Timing discThis is the setup I used for timing my Navigator.  I set the Boyer system statically as described in the Boyer instructions then used a strobe to set accurately.  Both cylinders very close, it got me thinking, has anyone tried dividing the ignitions stator plate to time each cylinder?  (As with the points setup).

I made a nut for the crankshaft with a male threaded extension to carry the timing disc.

Why is it the Navigators timing is 24 degrees while the other lightweights are 30/32?

 

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If the carburation and plug grade  are correct and once the bike is properly warmed up and given some revs and work to do then an idea of how the timing is working can be seen on the spark plug  earth electrode strap. There will be a distinct colour change on the outside face ,close to the weld is advanced closer to the firing tip is retarded.I like about 1/8" from the bend by the  weld .

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I also have a Boyer which I thought was on spot with static timing. Lightweights are very sensible to corect timing. In my case the engine seized twice because timing was off 15- 20 degrees towards TDC.

Despite my "correct " timing marks !   Definetly use a strobe lamp to set the igintion properly.!

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John

thats an impressive set up, I use a disc printed off the net stuck onto card with a wire pointer! 

Robert

im not sure about reading the plug for timing because the same method is described for fine tuning the heat range of the plug? 

 

Dan 

Hi Dan, Thats why you must use a plug that is known to be the right grade.  The colour banding on the plug does show (as you say)  the temperature thats happening in the chamber.An ignition thats too advanced with overheat the engine ,as will a weak mixture, so for this reading to be any use  everything else must be sorted first. Its just another tool in the box. Hi Jonathan, thanks for your kind comment, There are others better equiped for that job, I get bored too easily and rarely completely finish anything. ,60 years of fiddling with bikes ,cars, aircraft and boats fills the brain with plenty of outdated junk, I like to post regularly as I think it helps to keep the site open. Everyone should post something. You need a thick skin though as others will disagree !. And you won't always be right.

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hello guys now remember this to time the navigator  right way round  starting with the left hand cylinder and then the right hand cylinder,just like the big twins Now  my bob weights needs new set of small springs  and new clips as from what I have is a bit of anaborstion  and will need sorting out before use  now stay safe  and keep warm  cold weather is on its way and could be a real cold one this year   yours  Anna J

 


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