On a recent ride I felt the clutch operation getting slowly worse, the leaver was become more and more baggy/floppy and the more I was changing gear the more I could fell the clutch was not disengaging properly to the point it was making me creep along even with the clutch leaver fully back to the bars. It got to the point where I could not engage 1st gear after stopping, so ended up pushing it the last mile home.
On inspection I found the clutch operating leaver had no movement so I went through the clutch adjustment process and all seemed good on a short 1 mile or so ride.
Yesterday I fancied a longer ride and after 5-10 miles I could feel the clutch leaver again going baggy, luckily I managed to nurse it home doing minimal gear changes, and on inspection the clutch operating leaver again has no free play.
So I seen no point in adjusting it again as I’m sure the same will happen.
Can anyone suggest a solution to this issue.
Thanks in advance.
It looks to be inspection…
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Clutch Push Rod
Check out the two ends of the main shaft pushrod. The ends can wear very quickly if it is not the correct grade of steel.
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Having a look at it now. I…
Having a look at it now.
I've been unable to remove the clutch pushrod adjuster and nut from the clutch centre in order to adjust. I have used a long ring spanner and jolted it with a hammer, I don't have the use of an impact wrench. The bike is in gear with back wheel locked and all that happens is the clutch plates turn in the basket.
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Got it off with about 20…
Got it off with about 20 jolts with a hammer and ring spanner.
Found a broken tab washer inside the clutch basket, the parts book show it should be a normal lock washer.
Once I get one of these I'll put back together, what torque do I do the clutch nut to.
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Do you know the condition of…
Do you know the condition of the clutch location circlip? These things are easily worn/deformed if torqued up to the 70ftlbs it says in the manual. Replace the circlip with 06.8072 This is a norton part from the Mk3 electric start mechanism. it requires thinning down slightly to fit the clip groove and is a bugger to fit, but crucially it is much stronger. Use loctite on the nut threads and clutch centre splines. Torque the nut to no more than 50 ftlbs. 40 ftlbs if using the normal clutch location circlip. The tab washer is relatively soft and loosens off in service. (thats the reason for using loctite) I've had the tab break off as well, fell inbetween the plates and made the clutch drag
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Thanks for the info Peter My…
Thanks for the info Peter
My bike is a 1972 model and the parts drawing show a lock washer and then the clutch centre nut. Is the tab washer fitted onto the 1973 on bikes worth using as that's what a previous owner has done, even though it has broken and I'll have to get a new one.
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Yes, add 06-3459 to 06-3447…
Yes, add 06-3459 to 06-3447 as shown on the Andover Norton parts list, in addition to Loctite, as Peter wrote: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/207/chaincases-chains-sprockets-clutch-alternator
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It looks to be inspection time in the primary case. You need to check the adjusting screw and nut in the centre of the clutch pressure plate and work from there.