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navigator rebuild

Submitted by john_day on Thursday, 3 November, 2016 - 00:00
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Light Twins

i have recently started a navigator rebuild[found it locally and it has been off the road for 30 years]

I've sorted out the basics [engine, shocks, forks, new tyres and have done a rattle can respray, my intention is to get it back on the road and then sort out any more problems [there will be many!]

I still need to get the electrics sorted out..... am leaving it on 6 volt to start with, but may upgrade later

I have come across the resistance wire, broken!

where can I get another or can I just put in a resistor?

the bike is an early [1961] model......I last had one 50 years ago!

the prop stand is missing, there seems to be a threaded stud coming off the nearside frame at the front, any other prop stands fit?

thanks for any help

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Submitted by patrick_mullen on Thursday, 15 December, 2016 - 00:36

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Well done. Watch the centre stand if you get a bit enthusiastic on the corners. Original road tests seemed to say that the footrests were the first to touch down but I found that it was the centre stand. So if you hear a metallic scraping sound that's probably the cause! Roadholding is good but you do need to rev it high through the gears -

I'll say nothing except that Norton Navigators and Jubilee are spacious big bikes but I can put both feet to the ground- so just right.

Patrick.

Submitted by john_day on Monday, 19 December, 2016 - 00:00

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Has anyone fitted an ignition key to the navigator, and if so , where?

I don't want to be drilling holes in the headlamp shell or side panels.

I have a slow discharge on the battery, blowed if I can find it........ so I thought an ignition switch might be a good solution.

Submitted by dan_field on Monday, 19 December, 2016 - 00:37

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If you go 12v you aught to be able to replace the E/I switch with an ignition switch, but I intend to fit a hidden switch. Or just take the fuse out!

Dan

Submitted by patrick_mullen on Tuesday, 20 December, 2016 - 00:00

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Some versions of the Wipac ignition switch knob have a key but it is of very little use as the 'key' is a blank - so you can use virtually anything such as a screwdriver to turn it on. Also the existing ignition switch wiring leaves the horn and brake light still live even when the switch is off.

So the only handy answer is to put a switch in the tool box to isolate the battery.

HAPPY CHRISTMAS ( I expect you will be out working on your Navvi even while the Christmas dinner is being cooked.)

Patrick

Submitted by john_day on Tuesday, 20 December, 2016 - 00:38

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Thanks for both the suggestions, I spent a fruitful morning in the garage, bending a piece of aluminium to fit where the decorative panels behind the engine.........think I'll put an isolation switch on the panel........will sort out photos later. Now do I replace the bell mouth on the carb with an air filter 35 mm cheap enough, but will have to color tune carb afterwards........... And yes I will try to spend time on Christmas day in the garage!!!

Submitted by john_day on Wednesday, 21 December, 2016 - 00:00

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o.k. so I had this big isolation switch that I bought 15 years ago to fit on my range rover [horrible thing with a perkins engine]

that will never fit a navigator....... but it does,

still to wire up the alternator wires [grommet in place]

over engineered or what??

aluminium needs a good polish and laquer

will be held in place with a strong cable tie [did not want to put any holes in the u section down frame.

sent off for a spare key.... £1 .42

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Submitted by patrick_mullen on Thursday, 22 December, 2016 - 00:00

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That's quite a tidy design and your isolation switch looks identical to the ones I use in my MGBs so it should easily cope with a Navigator battery power. In the MG the switch is wired to cut the live feed from the battery to the starter so it carries maximum battery power.

I know you have a good understanding of these things but I would have suggested your switch is a bit in the line of fire if the carburettor should flood and drip petrol etc. But presumably you have wired it to interrupt the earth lead from the battery so the switch is never actually carrying a live current.

I see you have ordered a spare key; don't forget to wire your key to the bike when in use just in case it should decide to jump out and leave you stranded.

Happy Christmas.

Submitted by john_day on Monday, 30 January, 2017 - 00:00

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Previously patrick_mullen wrote:

That's quite a tidy design and your isolation switch looks identical to the ones I use in my MGBs so it should easily cope with a Navigator battery power. In the MG the switch is wired to cut the live feed from the battery to the starter so it carries maximum battery power.

I know you have a good understanding of these things but I would have suggested your switch is a bit in the line of fire if the carburettor should flood and drip petrol etc. But presumably you have wired it to interrupt the earth lead from the battery so the switch is never actually carrying a live current.

I see you have ordered a spare key; don't forget to wire your key to the bike when in use just in case it should decide to jump out and leave you stranded.

Happy Christmas.

a bit of an update, kickstart spring snapped [only the second one on all my bikes in 50 years of biking]

anyway replaced it yesterday, fitted an air filter and ran it for a while, all ready for an m.o.t. but can't see the point at the moment as weather is still not biking weather.

air filter was from china ........less than £3 including p and p

looks to be well made, fits snuggly between carb and down section

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