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Intermediate gear spindle

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I’ve read in a workshop manual (Haynes, Bacon or Norton - can’t remember which) that the intermediate pinion spindle should be a tight fit into its bore in the timing side crankcase and that heat is needed to remove it. I can pull my spindle out very easily - no real effort required. Maybe it spun in the casing at some point or maybe someone didn’t support it when removing the camshaft nut and strained the spindle bore. Whatever the reason, I have to live with it. When I re-install it, should I fit it with some bearing lock/stud lock to stop it from potentially spinning in the crankcase? Hopefully the fact that the other end of the spindle is supported by the bore in the timing cover will prevent any disasters from happening when the engine is running.

Any advice please?

regards

Tony

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It is not uncommon for these spindles to be a sliding fit. What this item must not be able to do is flap about. So check for up and down play when it is in the crankcase socket. Also check it has a good fit in the Timing Cover recess.

Check that this spindle has not become worn. Sometimes after many miles they wear down to a thinner diameter and/or get a wear shoulder(s) appearing which generally means a replacement is required.

When replacing the spindle Thread Lock Goo might be of help but personally I have never bothered with using the stuff in this area. The important points to note during re-assembly are to make sure the circlip that locates the spindle end is in place, the spindle has its oil drain hole facing downwards and the ground steel thrust washer that sits behind the pinion has not gone walkabout.

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Mine is also easy to pull out. The problem is as Phil says...that it comes out a bit when I remove the timing cover and the hardened washer behind the pinion falls out of place. Then either both the chains have to come off (wrecking the timing), or I fish about with wire to lift the washer whilst trying to get the shaft through the washer and into the hole. Next time (if there is one) I take the cover off, I've promised myself to put some bearing lock in there.

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Hardened washer behind the pinion? Oops! Hmm, yet another part that I need to buy. I think my engine was rebuilt by someone who wasn’t too interested in doing the job properly.

Thanks once more for the help and advice.

Tony

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I have always thought we are poorly served by Nortons manuals. Without good drawings its not easy to know whats missing. BSA seemed much better with really well detailed drawings. At least Norton designed bikes with simple details. I recently I found an exploded drg for the Rudge frame ,could not believe how complicated it all is. 

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Tony... before rushing out to get such a washer, see what Robert says. Just because I have one is no guarantee mine is correct! My bike had a few previous owners too.... I've just checked my Haynes manual and it is there on picture 27.6.

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Thanks guys - I’m used to Triumph parts manuals, which are incredibly detailed - every nut, bolt and washer is shown. It came as a nasty shock when I found only a handful of fairly poor exploded drawings in the Norton manual. I’ve been photographing everything as I take the engine apart, but if something is missing or in the wrong place, the danger is that I’ll just replicate the problem when I rebuild the engine. Ah the joys of motorcycle restoration.  :-)

cheers

Tony

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in the Commando Service Notes, currently being serialised in Roadholder.

I must say that in general I've found the Norton parts books to be reasonable although it would be helpful to have sizes / threads of the fasteners shown as Triumph do. But I do have a thread gauge and steel rule.....

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Yes, the Commando is much better served with parts and technical information - but pre-Commando stuff is often very different.  Close, but different enough to cause problems

Paul

 


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