Coach Enamel - recommendations

I was recommended 1 Shot enamel paint by a friend and am very pleased with the results.
This is sold by Wrights of Lymm and you can see the information on their website.

Wright House, Crouchley Lane, Lymm, Cheshire WA13 0AS

Phone: 01925 752226
Email: info@wrightsoflymm.co.uk

Another vote for 1 Shot, not used it on a motorcycle but have used it for signwriting on quite a few pub hanging signs back in the day when I had a very busy sideline. Pub signs of course hang in the wind and rain 24/7 .. 365

One of the little known virtues is it is still an oil based paint rather than a modern xylene based synthetic " enamel "

Anyway, a " good " paint

... every time for me. I used to use Tekaloid but was disappointed by some I had a few years ago. Paragon gives a lovely deep glossy finish that is hard wearing and easy to touch up in the case of the minor dings we all encounter (unless of course we never ride our bikes).

Of course the main key is preparation - I use cheap primer from toolstation then key with 400 grit production paper. I then use a tissue soaked in brake cleaner to remove any traces of grease followed by a tack rag to get rid of any remaining dust particles.

I've found that Paragon (and probably others) is very sensitive to temperature and on colder days warm the tin in hot water. I also decant enough for the immediate job into a clean jamjar or similar rather than dipping the brush in the tin.

Re brushes - Hamilton Perfection are often recommended. I find these far too stiff, not to mention expensive. I get the best results from cheap soft synthetic brushes which used carefully eliminate all brush marks.

I have used one shot for tank lining and the like but feel it might not be robust enough for general purpose use.

SInce the job is an important part of the appearance, I'd avoid DIY store brushes and follow the advice of 'Radco' (Vintage motorcycle workshop) and buy a high quality flat wide synthetic brush from a proper Artists' supply shop.  With care, a dust free environment (tack cloth before painting and covering to keep dust off) it's possible to almost totally avoid brush marks.

... the cheap brushes I use give a result which is completely free of brush marks. Their only drawback is that they don't hold as much paint as natural brushes so need reloading more often.

One other thing I've discovered is that I used to follow the instructions of washing brushes in white spirit then in soapy water. This never seemed quite right. What I do now is use several changes of white spirit until that comes clear the dry off with workshop paper towel. I've also discovered that if I decant the used white spirit into a suitable container all the paint solids sink to the bottom leaving effectively clean spirit for future cleaning (not dilution) use.

Fork shroud on my little BSA. What look like marks are in fact just reflections. Painted with a 2" brush from James Lister which cost a couple of quid.

50 years ago Radco may have been right, but modern synthetic Sabel brushes load almost as good as originals. Temperature and not over brushing are key to a good finish.  Nice job Ian!