I just bought some new fangled electrics for my Electra restoration project. I have a power box, a coil and an electronic ignition. I also bought a mounting bracket.
It would seem pretty simple to make a mounting plate for the power box to sit on the bracket atop the rear mudguard where the old Wipac mechanical regulator went, so that one is easy. I am not sure how the mounting bracket would work.
The ignition coil is a more interesting problem. Boyer tell me this has to be mounted on a 60 sq cm heat sink secured to the frame. I'm sure something can be designed to go under the tank where the old Wipac coils went, but if anyone else has done this, I'd be grateful if they could tell me what they did.
Timing the ignition looks like fun and games. I read Boyer's instructions, and understand about initial timing using the hole in the circuit board, but obviously Lightweight twins don't have the slick timing protractor in the primary case like Commandos do. I can set up a timing disc on the crankshaft with a pointer to find TDC and set to full advance for the hole method, but are we expected to rev the engine to 5000 rpm with the disc and pointer flapping around to strobe the ignition timing, or is there a gadget available? Of course, lightweights don't have a rev counter, but there is probably an electronic unit which can be used. Again, help from anyone who has done this would be gratefully accepted.
Hi, I have (or had until t…
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Hi, This is how I calculat…
Hi,
This is how I calculated the distance before top dead centre. I hope this was for the Electra, I did it a while ago. Anyway you can put your own numbers in if required.
Regards
Tony
Attachments BTDC.doc- Log in to post comments
Thank you Tony. Since I do…
Thank you Tony. Since I don't have the engine together yet, I will probably set the static timing in the way I usually do, by finding TDC with a dial test indicator and setting a degree disc to 0 using a pointer and then use the 28 degrees BTDC to do the hole thing. The trial and error method is likely the easiest way to go. As Al Oz used to say "Drive the bike up a hill advancing the timing until it pinks, then retard it a bit".
I have been spoiled by the timing protractor on the Commando, allowing easy strobing of timing.
Maybe I'll slam together a computer program to do the calculation you provided. If I do I will post the source here, and anybody can compile it on their own computer with a free compiler.
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Previously wrote: Thank yo…
Previously wrote:
Thank you Tony. Since I don't have the engine together yet, I will probably set the static timing in the way I usually do, by finding TDC with a dial test indicator and setting a degree disc to 0 using a pointer and then use the 28 degrees BTDC to do the hole thing. The trial and error method is likely the easiest way to go. As Al Oz used to say "Drive the bike up a hill advancing the timing until it pinks, then retard it a bit".
I have been spoiled by the timing protractor on the Commando, allowing easy strobing of timing.
Maybe I'll slam together a computer program to do the calculation you provided. If I do I will post the source here, and anybody can compile it on their own computer with a free compiler.
Computer programs??? This is 1964 you know? Right I don't think the Electra wants to be timed at 28 deg (that is Commando) I think the Electra is nearer 32?? Any way you time for the engine you have not the ones in the Boyer instructions for Commando.
Now timing marks. Find your TDC and then with a disc find your fully advanced ignition point. then transfer this to the alternator rotor and stator ie make two marks that you can see with a strobe. If you want the drawing of a fixed timing marker for your alternator then please email me.
It's nice to see someone remembered what I said, pity I can't these days! Regards to all.
Al
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Hi,
I have (or had until today as I have just sold it) an Electra with boyer power box and electronic ignition. I used the standard coils so I cannot help with your first question.
I timed the ignition using the 'suck it and see' method.
I calculated how far before TDC the piston should be for fully advanced (I will check the formula when I get to work an update this post), I then made a carefully calibrated prodder to go down through the plug hole and rotated the engine to the correct place. Set the magnets / plate as described. I then started the bike and it ran ok. Took it for a spin and it was pinking slightly under load so I adjusted it just a nadgers, remember 1 degree on the plate is 2 degrees on the engine.
It has been running a couple of years like this with no problems.
For the Navigator I used a CD mounted on the end of the alternator, this beingrigid it will happily run at 5000RPM
Regards
Tony