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De-rusting a fuel tank - alternative method

Reading Martins âRecommissioning Commandoâ post where he asks for the best method of cleaning out his petrol tank, I thought some of you may be interested in this method. Iâm sure many of you will have come across it before but donât remember seeing anything relating to it on this forum. Iâve put it in a separate thread so it may be easier to find should anyone wish to in the future.

What you need:

- Washing Soda.

- A sacrificial anode made of steel (but not stainless).

- A 12v power source, i.e. a battery charger, transformer or similar.

- Some scrap wood, rubber or any non-conductive material to hold the anode.

- A bucket & some water.

Method:

The sacrificial anode must not come into contact with the tank but must hang down inside as much as possible, the more anode surface area in the electrolyte, the better. To suspend it inside the tank I fashion a collar of sorts out of some scrap wood or a rubber stopper with a hole through the middle. The rod should be a tight fit in the collar to keep it from sliding into the tank and bent to thread through any narrow clearance between the underside of the top of the tank and the top of any ridges/humps there may be.

Next you need to make up the electrolytic solution, Fill the bucket with enough water to fill the tank. For every gallon, add a tablespoon of the Washing Soda & Stir thoroughly. When all the soda is dissolved, fill the tank with the solution. Be sure to seal any outlets etc, a small cork is good for petrol tap holes. Fit your anode making sure it does not make contact with the tank, this is important as you will end up with a dead short if it does. Attach the POSITIVE (+) lead from your power supply to the ANODE & the negative (-) lead to the tank & turn on the power. If using a battery charger, you may need to add a battery to the set up to stop the chargers overload safety cutout kicking in. The higher the amps you can use, the quicker the process will be, but the more likely it is the charger will keep cutting out, you just have to experiment to find whatâs best for whatever device you are using. Now itâs just a case of waiting & checking back every so often, every 6-10 hours should be ok. Remove the anode each time to clean it, it should come out covered in rust, use coarse abrasive paper or a grinder to remove stubborn deposits. Itâs also not a bad idea to change the electrolyte as well, at least every second time. It will depend on how rusty the tank was as to how many sessions it will take to de-rust it completely, but just keep repeating the process until your tank is clean. Once done, wash out thoroughly & dry completely, then itâs best to do something to stop it re-rusting quickly, such as swilling some oil or similar around inside or just filling with fuel. You may prefer to use your favourite tank coating system.

This process does work but may take some time. The advantages are no nasty chemicals that will damage paintwork & it does a much better job, with much less arm ache, than rattling gravel or nuts & bolts around.

If you canât get washing soda, spread some baking soda out on a baking sheet & bake in a hot oven (180-200C) for 45mins or so & it will do the job just as well

Regards, Tim

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Previously tim_gostling wrote:

Reading Martins âRecommissioning Commandoâ post where he asks for the best method of cleaning out his petrol tank, I thought some of you may be interested in this method. Iâm sure many of you will have come across it before but donât remember seeing anything relating to it on this forum. Iâve put it in a separate thread so it may be easier to find should anyone wish to in the future. .....

..... If you canât get washing soda, spread some baking soda out on a baking sheet & bake in a hot oven (180-200C) for 45mins or so & it will do the job just as well

Regards, Tim

Hi Tim,

Will this take off the tank sealer as well? Do you need another Anode in thein the other side of thepartly separated by the top frame tube running in that deep channel in the middle of the tank?

Many thanks Roger

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Hi Roger

Iâve never tried with a sealed tank, so canât say with any certainty, but I would expect the sealer to act as an insulating material, thus stopping the electrolyte making contact with the metal of the tank, & so preventing the âcircuitâ being completed. If, however, the sealer was porous enough to let the electrolyte seep through, the sealer may be lifted away with the rust, I really donât know. Basically, youâre electroplating, itâs just that youâre plating youâre steel rod/wire (your anode) with the oxide from your tank (the cathode) instead of plating your tank with copper, nickel or chrome. You donât need a second anode, but thereâs no harm in moving it from one side of the tank, to the other (or making two different anodes if your tank has a filler to one side) & alternating it after each cleaning session.

One thing I should have mentioned in my first post is that you should always leave a vent of some sort, the electrolyte will get warm & give off a vapour which needs somewhere to escape, & if you have the tank brim full, a little electrolyte may bubble over.

Regards, Tim

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Any sealant will not be removed by this method, you will first need to use Actetone or MEK etc depending on the sealant used.

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You can remove Petseal by filling your tank with the stuff they call petrol, containing 5% Ethanol. Just leave it a few days and then peel it away with long nose pliers and it comes out like halfmelting plastic

Another way of cleaning the inside of a petrol tank is to put a dozen nuts and bolts of small to medium size(I use stainless) inside your tank and carefully cushion the tank inside a concrete mixer. Turn on the mixer and leave for 15 minutes. (More time if necessary)

Tank sealantswith their inhibitors saved all of the above but for the demand for contaminating, corrosiveEthanol! (Not by me of course)

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just started doing this on the jubilee was trying the coke a cola method been in 4 days and sill getting bubble to see what happens.but is until the tank sealer arrives.

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If you use a chemical de ruster, (vinegar will also work), its important to rinse it thoroughly then wash out with alcohol (absorbs water and evaporates quickly, Then dry it asap and wash it round with thin oil or twostroke fuel to protect it.

Cleaned steel seems to rust really quiclky if you leave it unprotected

I'm interested to see how the cola works.

Dan

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I have used the rusty nail as anode successfully, also phosphoric acid is good as it changes the last bit of rust to iron phosphate which gives a thin veneer against iron oxide rust reforming.

 


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