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1972 Commando running issues - pls help a new owner.

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Hi everyone,

I've acquired a 1972 Commando, and since then, i thought i could get it on the road asap, but seems not.

I have had mega short rides and found in any gear, the bike will cough and not rev pass 2-3000rpm. Twisting the throttle does nothing after 2500, it just doesn't want to accelerate.

Since then, i have cleaned out the carbs with a Andover Carb rebuild kit, the carbs didn'tseem so dirty to me for a bike which was sitting for about 10 years.

New filter and new rubber, gaskets connecting the carb, new fuel line and take outlets.

Today I started her up again, hoping it was just a blocked jet, but it has still not solved the issues. The bike basically is doing the same thing. On the stand, full throttle, it will only go up to 3500rpm or so before shutting down completely.

I have not yet checked the timing as yet, and it looks like it is a Boyer ignition system? I'll have to double check.

What else should i be checking in my case? Is it a timing issue?

Usually I'll put it down as a carb issue, but i spent a good hour on each carb making sure it was all ok. Unless I'm missing something?

Any help would be appreciated.

I'll keep updating this thread when i have had a chance to look at the timing more.

Thanks.

Rich

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You need to check the timing, both the fully advanced position and that it is advancing. Check tappet clearances etc. Have you replaced the rubber tube that runs between the 2 inlet manifolds, if its leaking from being split then that will stop you accelerating.

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The fact that it shuts down completely says its an ignition failure , bad timing or tune will normally keep running somehow. Boyer stator plate wiring failure is common.

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Hi John, thanks for the reply.

Timing is the next thing to do, tappet clearance will be done together.

And yes, i changed out the hose between the carbs. It's snug now, only had the bike running in the garage, so will check for leaks again when possible.

Thanks for the tips.

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You need to check the timing, both the fully advanced position and that it is advancing. Check tappet clearances etc. Have you replaced the rubber tube that runs between the 2 inlet manifolds, if its leaking from being split then that will stop you accelerating.

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Thanks for the reply Robert.

I have no experience with Boyer. If stator plate wiring fails, a replacement is required I'm assuming? Would a Pain Surefire replacement be worth swapping out?

The Boyer unit it self looks a bit tired tbh. I am looking for a plan B if the unit could be the problem. But in saying this, the bike only shut down when i was really full throttling it on the stand. It could have been over fueled hence shut down? But the strange thing is still that it never got up pass maybe 4k rpm...

Previously robert_tuck wrote:

The fact that it shuts down completely says its an ignition failure , bad timing or tune will normally keep running somehow. Boyer stator plate wiring failure is common.

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The boyer stator wire issue can be repaired, it affects Commandos more than any other bike due to the engine being isolated from the frame so the wire is subject to bending forces more.

One repair (there are others)

http://www.decentcycles.com/how-to/96-boyer-wire-repair-kit

After you have fixed the broken wires make sure you leave a loop in the boyer feed wire just before it enters the timing cover, also fit a wad of foam under the points cover so it presses on the stator plate and the wire connectors. Both these actions will stop it happening again.

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So i just went to the garage to take a quick look.

Boyer ignition, but i cant see model. Can anyone take a look and let me know so i can find a manual for it?

From memory and looking (should have taken a pen and wrote this down, so i might be wrong.) The timing stator plate is where points should have been, wires then run up to the coils. Coils have four connectors, two of the connectors were made redundant (bottom two), then top two connectors looks like a split from stator plate to a box, which i couldn't see any writing as it was hung up weirdly.

Photos as below post.

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Hi John,

Would you know of one manufacturer based in the UK? Or EU?

Seems like this link is in the US? hard to find where they are from tbh. Site doesn't say, unless i missed it.

Thx

Previously john_holmes wrote:

The boyer stator wire issue can be repaired, it affects Commandos more than any other bike due to the engine being isolated from the frame so the wire is subject to bending forces more.

One repair (there are others)

http://www.decentcycles.com/how-to/96-boyer-wire-repair-kit

After you have fixed the broken wires make sure you leave a loop in the boyer feed wire just before it enters the timing cover, also fit a wad of foam under the points cover so it presses on the stator plate and the wire connectors. Both these actions will stop it happening again.

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The photos of the boyer look like it is in pretty good condition to me. I would be looking at the ignition timing first then moving onto the fuel system. When you say it shuts down after revving up, does it cut completely or does it gradually drop out, misfire and stop? Is the petrol tap allowing plenty of fuel though into the carbs, try opening both taps. Is the fuel fresh? If the cut out is sudden check for a short circuit or try running a wire from the Negative side of the battery to the white wire into the boyer ( fit a switch in this wire)

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Hi David,

I slowly twisted the throttle, going all the way up to full, the rev just slowly going up to around 4k, then gradually drops out. There is definitely misfiring. At full throttle, the rev does no go up pass 4k, and cough and engines dies.

Fuel is fresh, bought today.

I emptied the previous fuel, opened both sides. Fuel flows looked ok.

I checked the bottom of the carbs by unscrewing the bowl bottom, plenty of fuel in there. The tickles before starting up actually let's too much fuel in, as the carbs do leak from the gaskets (which are new).

May i ask why run a wire from negative of battery to the white wire into the Boyer? And fit switch?

Thanks for your feed back.

Previously david_evans wrote:

The photos of the boyer look like it is in pretty good condition to me. I would be looking at the ignition timing first then moving onto the fuel system. When you say it shuts down after revving up, does it cut completely or does it gradually drop out, misfire and stop? Is the petrol tap allowing plenty of fuel though into the carbs, try opening both taps. Is the fuel fresh? If the cut out is sudden check for a short circuit or try running a wire from the Negative side of the battery to the white wire into the boyer ( fit a switch in this wire)

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And and do you happen to know what model Boyer this is? I'd like to look for a manual and timing procedure.

Thx

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A really silly question, but you wouldn't be the first if you're not used to Amals. Are you operating the choke correctly, i.e. tight wire for normal running ?

If the float bowl gaskets are leaking then the bowls are probably distorted which means some work performing figures-of-eight with a surface plate and fine wet & dry paper.

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Hi Richard,Yes, this is my first Amals. First Norton. I didn't have to use the choke lever to start, it just kicked over. But the choke was off. (I'm pretty sure). Lever is located on the left side of handle bar, tilted all the way up (towards 10 o'clock). As in this photo http://i.imgur.com/9JHVJRy.jpgIs that my first newbie mistake then? Noted on the leak I'll check the balance of them. Thx.Previously richard_payne wrote:

A really silly question, but you wouldn't be the first if you're not used to Amals. Are you operating the choke correctly, i.e. tight wire for normal running ?

If the float bowl gaskets are leaking then the bowls are probably distorted which means some work performing figures-of-eight with a surface plate and fine wet & dry paper.

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In regards to timing, do i actually need a timing scale or degree plate to do the timing? I've never had a bike which requires actual degree in timing, rather than using a depth gauge in cylinder head.

Thx

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If your choke lever is in the same position as that picture you posted then your choke is ON. This would explain why it won't rev. The lever needs to be turned all the way so that it's pulling the cable taught and lifting the slides for the choke to be off.

It is somewhat counter intuitive.

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Oh dear.

I read the user manual and i was sure that in this position is off.

So cable taught, choke is OFF, and loose is ON.

I will make a point to try it out tomorrow as soon as i find time and see if this has fixed my issues. I'm betting you're right and me being the newbie... This is rather embarrassing tbh, but that's why we ask questions, to learn.

Thanks.

Previously ian_goodhall wrote:

If your choke lever is in the same position as that picture you posted then your choke is ON. This would explain why it won't rev. The lever needs to be turned all the way so that it's pulling the cable taught and lifting the slides for the choke to be off.

It is somewhat counter intuitive.

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Don't be embarrased, Richard. Most of us have done it. In my case I was about sixteen with a crowd of my 'mates' standing around. Oh how they laughed.

The symptoms that you described fit an engine running with choke exactly. If the lever is not tightened enough, it can happen in use as well. That's confusing.

You should have a timing degree plate on the inside of the inspection window that you use for strobing. They are on slotted fixings so can be out a little but will be near enough to run. Checking the timing plate with the use of a degree disc can wait until you're a little more familiar with the thing !

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... and finally , if the correct choke lever position for normal running doesn't solve the problem , just check the small breather hole in petrol cap is completely clear. A blocked breather orifice (totally or even just partially) will produce your running symptoms. Blockage quite likely also if bike has been standing for 10 years. I've had exactly this on a Commando - and fixed in seconds.

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Thanks for the tips Richard , I'll make a dash to the garage as soon So I'm free to test start the bike. No working on it until Monday, but a quick test start will be need for my own sanity. Will check the tank cap too quickly for a quick fix.

Have a great weekend all. Update coming soon.

Previously james_fanning wrote:

... and finally , if the correct choke lever position for normal running doesn't solve the problem , just check the small breather hole in petrol cap is completely clear. A blocked breather orifice (totally or even just partially) will produce your running symptoms. Blockage quite likely also if bike has been standing for 10 years. I've had exactly this on a Commando - and fixed in seconds.

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So back from a quick test as i onky had half and hour.

Played with the choke, turned it anticlockwise down and the revs went straight up. The engine ran, but it popped a lot and started throwing flames out the exhaust. Doing this on a Saturday during lunch time in suburbia Germany inside a low ceiling garage was probably not a great idea.

I'm guessing I better sort out the timing first before a second attempt?

Any other suggestions or items on the list to check , pls feel free to add.

Timing, tappet, new spark plugs (again), look inside fuel cap airhole for blockage, try choke lever again ... If all fails, then check over the Boyer unit.

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You were starting it from cold, and took the choke off straight away ?

If so your mixture would have been weak until the engine warmed up, so nothing to suggest anything is wrong other than never owning a Commando before and needing to learn its foibles. Next time get it started with the choke and then go out for a ride using low revs then within a 1/4 mile take the choke off and then get the engine up to temp before opening it up.

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I tried turning the choke down at first, but it didn't want to stay idle, so i turned it back up and let it warm up for a bit.

The engine got warm and i tried it again. Still the same.

The rev sent up and went back down and it didn't have enough rev to keep idling. I tried turning the throttle adjuster on the handle bar and balance the choke to keep it idling, but that didn't really work either, it just kept back firing and popping.

On the tuning note - what is the standard turn outs for the two Air pilot Screw and the throttle screw?

I asked Simon at Andoerver, his suggestion was 1.1/2 turn out on pilot screw, and throttle screw - when throttle slide is at the lowest point, turn the screw so it makes contact with the slide, then further 2 more turns.

I'm a little confused by this, how do i know when the slide is at its lowest and made contact? Am i suppose to make this adjustment with the carbs off?

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You were starting it from cold, and took the choke off straight away ?

If so your mixture would have been weak until the engine warmed up, so nothing to suggest anything is wrong other than never owning a Commando before and needing to learn its foibles. Next time get it started with the choke and then go out for a ride using low revs then within a 1/4 mile take the choke off and then get the engine up to temp before opening it up.

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You probably need to clean out your pilot jets, only 100% reliable method is to glue a 16 thou drill into a wd40 red tube and using your fingers drill them clean, the pilot jet is in the brass bush at the bottom of the hole the pilot jet mixture screw is screwed into.

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Nice tip. Reading through it now. Thanks.Previously christopher_winsby wrote:

Look at Bushmans Amal its a good guide

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I had to read the guide suggested above to know what you were taking about. Now I know. Thanks.

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You probably need to clean out your pilot jets, only 100% reliable method is to glue a 16 thou drill into a wd40 red tube and using your fingers drill them clean, the pilot jet is in the brass bush at the bottom of the hole the pilot jet mixture screw is screwed into.

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Hi everyone,

My cry for help once again...

I tried to do the timing before testing the choke. It worked semi ok, i was able to run the bike with the choke off for a little.

But for the timing, because i have the Boyer unit, i needed to be at 31 degrees BTDC , which was done prior to resetting the stator plate.

The previous owner had the magnet tiled a bit further than the Boyer instruction stated. It was tiled left side higher than right side magnet. I fixed this and aligned the magnet to the Norton sign as stated in the instruction. Installed the stator plate as required.

Started the bike hoping it'll be ok. But no. Couldn't in my life get the timing to 31 degrees , it remained at over 40 degrees no matter which way i turned the stator plate. It popped and banged as well. The kick started will walk me back a few times when i had turned the stator plate anticlockwise.

I'm at a lost here on how to make it to get even get below 40 degrees.

Help anyone? Please? Any feed back, suggestions would be appreciated.

Fyi - not cleaned the carb again as yet, i am hoping to do this when i have more time this week..........

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The instruction settings are only a starting point, due to the components used when you use the strobe you will normally find it needs adjusting so it was best left where it was. If its stuck fully advanced then you could have the 2 trigger wires transposed, they use black/white and black/yellow and once the white ages it starts to look yellow DOH. So check the trigger wires are connected the right way round both at the stator and up at the box. One last check is to just transpose them anyway as its possible the internal wiring is wrong from the factory, Pazon have definately made this mistake, not heard of it with a Boyer but there is always a first time and the symptoms are exactly as you describe.

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Ok, thanks, I'll check the wiring.

Also, in regards to timing - there are TWO marks in my rotor. I have found the one which is definitely the correct mark for TDC.

If and when this mark is lined up to 31 degrees in the degree plate, does this mean it's now 31 degrees BTDC? I keep rereading the Norton instructions and the Boyer instruction, and I'm getting pretty confused, as in my other bikes, usually i would have to actually turn to get BTDC, it seems way to easy to just set the marker to 31 and that's already BTDC. (If you know what i mean).

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So I'm back at the Choke.

Timing problem sort of sorted. The Boyer magnet needed to go back to the previous owner's position of around 10 and 4 o'clock. Then i adjusted the plate and now it's timing at 31(jumping) degrees at 3k rpm. Which is still wrong, as manual says 5k rpm.

But the choke - i cant in my life get it to settle down.

I've cleaned out the pilot jet, it stays idle, but when i turn the choke DOWN so cable is tight... The revs jump up like it's got a life on its own and starts walking and hopping away from me.

I've tried turning both the air screw and the screw that adjusts the height of the slide, it calmed down a little, but still can't get the Choke to idle normal when it's tight.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Previously ian_goodhall wrote:

If your choke lever is in the same position as that picture you posted then your choke is ON. This would explain why it won't rev. The lever needs to be turned all the way so that it's pulling the cable taught and lifting the slides for the choke to be off.

It is somewhat counter intuitive.

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Dear Richard,

You seem to now have a problem of obtaining a low idle speed with choke off. Check you have a little slack in throttle cable at Bars, then also check you have a little slack at the top of each carb as someone might have adjusted ones on top of carb too much.

I doubt this ill be an end to the issue, but until you have it running without any choke it will be hard to trace any misfire as you will be sooting up the plugs.

regards Martin

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You are still a few degrees advanced which will give a faster idle, you can make a stab at the right setting without strobing at 5K by going for 28 at 3K but do time it right soon ie 31 at 5K.

Other possibility on top of Martins suggestion on the cables is an air leak at one of the manifold joints, spray some WD40 at the joints as the bike is idling, a change in revs as you spray tells you where the leak is.

If the revs are varying off choke then it could be your carbs are just worn out between the slides and the body, a common Amal fault caused by them using the same metal for both. The new Amal premiers fix that issue as does taking your old ones and having the body bored and the slide sleeved in brass or stainless. Anyway the worn carb allows varying amounts of air past so the idle is never steady.

If when you strobed the timing line was wandering then your cam chain could be slack, another cause of wandering idling as the timing is changing with the chain slack.

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Both John's points are well worth attention.

On the carbs, if your funds won't stretch to a new pair of Premiers, and the old ones aren't too worn, just a pair of the new anodised slides may help. At the same time, consider the state of the needles and needle jets and renew if doubtful.

My recently-acquired Fastback had rattly slides, but even more spectacular was the wear on the needles (and by inference, the jets). Just replacing these three items made a dramatic improvement to rich running (tho' I didn't and don't have any problems with tickover, once warm).

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You are still a few degrees advanced which will give a faster idle, you can make a stab at the right setting without strobing at 5K by going for 28 at 3K but do time it right soon ie 31 at 5K.

Other possibility on top of Martins suggestion on the cables is an air leak at one of the manifold joints, spray some WD40 at the joints as the bike is idling, a change in revs as you spray tells you where the leak is.

If the revs are varying off choke then it could be your carbs are just worn out between the slides and the body, a common Amal fault caused by them using the same metal for both. The new Amal premiers fix that issue as does taking your old ones and having the body bored and the slide sleeved in brass or stainless. Anyway the worn carb allows varying amounts of air past so the idle is never steady.

If when you strobed the timing line was wandering then your cam chain could be slack, another cause of wandering idling as the timing is changing with the chain slack.

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Thanks John and Julian,

After a good day on the bike, i finally worked out the kinks. Got the timing right and the timing was as John stated, causing the choke problems. But since i managed to finally time the bike at 5k and it actually ended up at 31+/-, the bike has been idling good. It's currently sitting on about 1.5k rpm on idle, i have been turning the screws and still got more tuning to do so it sits lower on idle.

As for new slides, where can i locate slides for my 932 Amal carbs? I've looked on Andover, and they don't seem to have any. My slides are definitely not the greatest slides I've seen. There are marks and surface scratches on them, and i would definitely put in new ones if i can find some up to date versions. (UK or Germany preferred if anyone has a recommendation)

Also, YES! The timing line is wandering for sure. It's moving from 30 to 31.5 or so. I'll take a look at the cam chain adjustment next.

Thanks again everyone.

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You are still a few degrees advanced which will give a faster idle, you can make a stab at the right setting without strobing at 5K by going for 28 at 3K but do time it right soon ie 31 at 5K.

Other possibility on top of Martins suggestion on the cables is an air leak at one of the manifold joints, spray some WD40 at the joints as the bike is idling, a change in revs as you spray tells you where the leak is.

If the revs are varying off choke then it could be your carbs are just worn out between the slides and the body, a common Amal fault caused by them using the same metal for both. The new Amal premiers fix that issue as does taking your old ones and having the body bored and the slide sleeved in brass or stainless. Anyway the worn carb allows varying amounts of air past so the idle is never steady.

If when you strobed the timing line was wandering then your cam chain could be slack, another cause of wandering idling as the timing is changing with the chain slack.

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Previously richard_chan wrote:

Thanks John and Julian,

After a good day on the bike, i finally worked out the kinks. Got the timing right and the timing was as John stated, causing the choke problems. But since i managed to finally time the bike at 5k and it actually ended up at 31+/-, the bike has been idling good. It's currently sitting on about 1.5k rpm on idle, i have been turning the screws and still got more tuning to do so it sits lower on idle.

As for new slides, where can i locate slides for my 932 Amal carbs? I've looked on Andover, and they don't seem to have any. My slides are definitely not the greatest slides I've seen. There are marks and surface scratches on them, and i would definitely put in new ones if i can find some up to date versions. (UK or Germany preferred if anyone has a recommendation)

Also, YES! The timing line is wandering for sure. It's moving from 30 to 31.5 or so. I'll take a look at the cam chain adjustment next.

Thanks again everyone.

Previously john_holmes wrote:

You are still a few degrees advanced which will give a faster idle, you can make a stab at the right setting without strobing at 5K by going for 28 at 3K but do time it right soon ie 31 at 5K.

Other possibility on top of Martins suggestion on the cables is an air leak at one of the manifold joints, spray some WD40 at the joints as the bike is idling, a change in revs as you spray tells you where the leak is.

If the revs are varying off choke then it could be your carbs are just worn out between the slides and the body, a common Amal fault caused by them using the same metal for both. The new Amal premiers fix that issue as does taking your old ones and having the body bored and the slide sleeved in brass or stainless. Anyway the worn carb allows varying amounts of air past so the idle is never steady.

If when you strobed the timing line was wandering then your cam chain could be slack, another cause of wandering idling as the timing is changing with the chain slack.

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" The timing line is wandering for sure. It's moving from 30 to 31.5 or so. I'll take a look at the cam chain adjustment next."

...You're holding on to a Commando revving at 5000 rpm on the mainstand pointing a strobe that may or may not have an independent power source and you can see a 1 1/2? shift...

I reckon that you're doing quite well because by this point I've got blurred vision and am becoming dizzy from being dragged round and round in circles as the main stand grinds a groove in the concrete...Laughing

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Thank you! I'll look them up!Previously christopher_winsby wrote:

For Amal spares try Burlen Fuel systems or Surrey Cycles

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Haha yeah... I had to call for help, a buddy of mine wanted to see the bike and helped me with the timing.

When I tried to do the timing alone, the bike kept walking away from me at 3k rpm, so when my friend came over, he held the rev at 5k and i checkex the timing. Made a few good adjustments and ended up at 31 or so.

Most of the initial test where done on the main stand, and did the last test off the stand because the vibrations were just too much.

Test was also made with a fully charged second battery.

But yes... Blurred visions are kicking in. By the end of the day, I had a hard time trying to stick a flathead screwdriver driver to adjust the carbs screws as it was vibrating so much. But a win is a win, today was one of those days i felt i made a good step knowing this bike.

Previously richard_payne wrote:

" The timing line is wandering for sure. It's moving from 30 to 31.5 or so. I'll take a look at the cam chain adjustment next."

...You're holding on to a Commando revving at 5000 rpm on the mainstand pointing a strobe that may or may not have an independent power source and you can see a 1 1/2? shift...

I reckon that you're doing quite well because by this point I've got blurred vision and am becoming dizzy from being dragged round and round in circles as the main stand grinds a groove in the concrete...Laughing

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Whatever slide you get make sure its not a plain slide, it must be anodised or chromed ( Surrey Cycle chromed slides work, Burlens chrome slides flaked hence they changed to anodised), a plain slide will wear your body out rapidly.

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Thanks.

I've looked up the Surrey Cycle parts, I'll need to find my correct cutaway size first.

But i just remember, i noticed there was a small hairline crack on the right carb, located just next to the needle jet holder. I totally forgot to take a photo of it.

I'm assuming this is an issue, as it is with all carbs.

When i take the carb a off again next week, if the crack is bad, then I've got to decided if a rebuild is better or buying genuine Amal PREM replacement or Mikuni single carb. Both new options are around the same price. 2 Amal carbs for £340 or single Mikuni conversion for £380.

I'd love to stay as original as i can with Amal, but Mikuni carbs are what I'm used to, and tuning a single carb rather than 2 sounds much better to me.

Anyone resding this thread with a Mikuni single conversion? I've read there are some times tuning issues. But a quick email conversation with Steve at Motocarb, he says no issues in the last 10 years he has been selling this set up.

Have a good Easter everyone.

Rich.

Previously john_holmes wrote:

Whatever slide you get make sure its not a plain slide, it must be anodised or chromed ( Surrey Cycle chromed slides work, Burlens chrome slides flaked hence they changed to anodised), a plain slide will wear your body out rapidly.

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Previously richard_chan wrote:

â?I'd love to stay as original as i can with Amal, but Mikuni carbs are what I'm used to, and tuning a single carb rather than 2 sounds much better to meâ?

Why not change to a single Amal Premier?

Fritz

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Or get your originals resleeved

Can't rate Kevin highly enough Kevin Traill Alverstoke Restorations 5 Hazelworth Drive Gosport Hants England PO12 2UH After 16:30 best time to get him at home 02392 580708 Email: KJTRAILL(at)qinetiq.com

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Thanks for the suggestions Fritz.

I actually looked into this, but there are so many pages in Amal single conversion that it's doing my head in.

Also, i mentioned Mikuni it's because i (tbh) easier to find, plus there are already speciality kits out there ready to bolt on and ride.

If i was to go Amal Premier, i guess i would stay twin carbs, as it is the most original and looks badass compared to the single carb.

Previously Fritz Wettstein wrote:

Previously richard_chan wrote:

â?I'd love to stay as original as i can with Amal, but Mikuni carbs are what I'm used to, and tuning a single carb rather than 2 sounds much better to meâ?

Why not change to a single Amal Premier?

Fritz

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The following may be redundant if you decide to go the Mikuni single-carb route, but a pic of one of my worn slides is here:

http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-chat/technical4-commando-forum/282059238?b_start=0#27569443

on the thread titled "Carburettor jetting for low octane fuel?" (and the preceding post included a pic of one of my worn needles). As noted elsewhere, Burlen anodised items cured the slide rattle.

Julian

Previously richard_chan wrote:

Thanks John and Julian,

...
My slides are definitely not the greatest slides I've seen. There are marks and surface scratches on them, and i would definitely put in new ones if i can find some up to date versions.
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Thanks for the info Julian.

I checked your link and picture. Unfortunately, the pictures are super pixelated, especially on the slide image, can't really make out the scratches. I'm viewing it on my phone, but i cant imagine pixelation caused by a smaller screen. I can see that the needles are in a bad state tho, mine are bad, but not as bad, mine does have score makes on it. I have tried to clean it some what with carb cleaner, but no help.

I'm weighing up the options and cost to see whats the most effective in the long run. This is a bike I keep, so putting some money into it to make it run proper and nice would only benefit long term.

Also, when you guys say "Burlen" it's basically the mother company of Amal I'm assuming? And this is the item you are speaking about ? "Throttle Slide - No. X - Cut Away - Zinc"?

I must admit, i was a little worried buying my first "classic" English bike, not knowing if parts are mostly available and at what cost, but I'm surprised how easily parts can be had and prices for parts are actually fair compared to the Japanese bikes I've been playing with.

Previously julian_wells wrote:

The following may be redundant if you decide to go the Mikuni single-carb route, but a pic of one of my worn slides is here:

http://www.nortonownersclub.org/noc-chat/technical4-commando-forum/282059238?b_start=0#27569443

on the thread titled "Carburettor jetting for low octane fuel?" (and the preceding post included a pic of one of my worn needles). As noted elsewhere, Burlen anodised items cured the slide rattle.

Julian

Previously richard_chan wrote:

Thanks John and Julian,

...
My slides are definitely not the greatest slides I've seen. There are marks and surface scratches on them, and i would definitely put in new ones if i can find some up to date versions.

 

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