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Fitting an engine kill switch

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Hi. I have fitted an ignition switch to my Dommie 99 project but it’s not easily accessible when in the riding position. I would therefore like to add an engine kill switch on the handlebars. However, I’m not sure what wire I need to interrupt. Would it be ok to fit it in the coil’s earth lead (it’s a dual output coil controlled by a Pazon electronic ignition) so that I cut the earth feed to the coil when the kill switch is operated. If that’s not the correct way to do things, any advice would be gratefully accepted. Thanks in advance.

Regards

Tony

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Not a good idea to break a coil lead, the high voltage in that department could get to the ignition amplifier and kill it. You could add on the handlebar a 'break' switch in line with the normal ignition switch. This would be the same as a Commando ignition switch. But what actual switch you would use I do not know, perhaps a Commando type?

 

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Al. Thanks for preventing me from wrecking my electronic ignition amplifier!

I’m going to be using handlebar switchgear from a 80s Enfield Bullet (sacrilege I know, but it looks less gaudy than modern switchgear with lots of brightly coloured buttons). It has a cutout switch on the right-hand cluster. So should I just interrupt the battery feed to the ignition?

Thanks

Regards

Tony

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I know these switches and they should do the job, but make sure the break switch you use is 'permanent' break. Not a push to break-temporarily, .As a temporary switch would remake when you let it go so engine might re start if it is still turning. Or if the engine stopped and the switch was still made then the amplifier would have power to it while the ignition is left on. Not good in the long run. Break the ignition circuit on a permanent basis. 

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As usual, Al is correct. Pazon specifically mention in the small print not to interrupt the feed to the Pazon box whilst the engine is turning. I did not read the small print and paid the price, literally! 

Dennis

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Most modern electronic ignitions (including the Pazon) go into standby after a short period, so as not to drain your battery, should you inadvertently have left your ignition switch on.

 

I believe the Royal Enfield switch you are probably referring to is a latching on/off type, so no issue there.

 

However, more of a warning for others that may read this:

A momentary push-to-break (aka normally closed) switch that cuts the white wire (hot negative from the ignition switch) is absolutely sufficient.

It’s how most 70s bikes are setup, the standard that most brit bike electronic ignition manufacturers (including Pazon) build to, so definitely good enough when retro fitting to an older bike.

Be careful with your selection of switch though, as most aftermarket ones are push-to-make (aka normally open) and the make is to ground (the metal of the handlebar)

This is fine for a horn, or to earth a magneto, but not suitable for an electronic ignition.

 

I frequently see people fitting the aftermarket Tricon switch in place of the original Triconsul and then wonder why their fuse blows when they ‘flash their headlamp’ - it’s for the same reason.

 

 


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