Hydraulic Bike Lift for Dominator - will this lift work ?

Mike, I've had one of these bike lifts for the last 8 years. I've used is many times on my mk3 850 Commando and my wideline Triton for removing wheels, dismantling forks and various other jobs. I've found it to be very useful and it's given me no problems. Of course you have to be careful about positioning it under the bike and once you've lifted the bike up you need to be sure the bike is firmly strapped down onto the lift before working on the bike. Whether is enables working "at seated height" depends on the height of your seat. I usually sit on an upturned beer bottle crate which is about a foot high. Bob

Got one myself. Good bit of kit.

I've just got a full size platfform lift (free...,) and it certainly makes everything far easier. Just more comfortable. But it takes a lot of floor space, and one bike (the lightest) has to stay on it and I have to squeeze past. If I were buying one, I think I'd go for something like the one you are looking at. Especially now that Robert and Robert seem to be happy with theirs.

Haven't used my similar one on a featherbed as I have a fullsize lifting table too. If the frame tubes are the lowest part it will work perfect. Otherwise some pieces of two by four will fix that. As already said, strap down the bike to the lift.

I see two differences to mine. My lift has also strapping points higher up. So height can be changed without changing strapping. It don't have a fixed towing handle but a loose one. Makes it take up less space and is easier to work on both sides of the bike. But the Clarke one has the advantage of two turn down screws making it less prone to move around. Just to annoy you, mine was 40% cheaper.

Edit. Forgot to mention that it is very important to use the height locking. Otherwise you might find your bike resting on its side the next day.

Hi David

Just come across this discussion. Bought my hydraulic bike lift nearly 20yrs ago and decided it was too tricky getting bikes on / off on my own.

Decided there was only one place it could go, bearing in mind roof beams, benches etc. Markedout in chalk to allow for lining a small "pit" , so ramp is flush with floor when at rest.

Allow for lining the sides of pit with breeze blocks, cemented in. 1/4" thick steel plates under the metal wheels. Check all measurements .....times before hiring the Stihl Saw. Oh, did I mention plastic sheets and masking everything against the dust! All good fun.....but well worth it.

Regards

Tim S

I would think that unlike the pit for working on the underside of a car, a pit for a motorcycle workshop would only have to be waist deep.

Mike

I bought a Sealey 365K lift MC365 (Proof Load +25%) about 10 -12 years ago so model may be updated. I find it ideal for the Dommie as I prefer the idea of a flat bed to lock front wheel in a clamp and add further tie downs.I also put bike on its stand. I have used without tie downs,  however, with no problem. The lift has been used for Royal Enfield Bullet (on it now while I work out how to put magneto back on), T120R Triumph and BSA A65L with no issues to date. It comes to an ideal height for my purposes.  Cheers, Hugh

I had to mod my Sealey lift slightly to put anchoring eyes at the rear of the ramp to allow for the Commando being a longer beast than my Busa or Blackbird.  I actually managed to drop it with the front wheel out when it slowly slid forwards off the centrestand, thankfully while I was able to catch it and stop it falling sideways. The angle of the straps wasn’t quite enough to prevent it happening.  NEVER AGAIN!

also, don’t forget to replace the removable ramp when you wheel your pride and joy off it. It makes for a scary moment with a quarter tonne of metal suddenly dropping. 

Tims idea of a pit to  hold the  lift  is what I am doing.  A  9"" diamond tip angle grinder  will cut through the concrete base . about a foot bigger all round than the lift. a new concrete bed and sides with plastic dpc under will  form the new pit.  

 If the ground water table is high, I'd make sure it has a sump for an occasional or even frequent pump out. My old friend broke his leg falling into his car pit, so take care! For a car you need the pit beneath the vehicle and even then access to things like suspension is restricted. I imagine first a bike you want it to be alongside. So you need to choose: right or left?

Mike, I have one - same thing, just a different brand. I use it to lift a 650SS. You can get them cheaper than machine mart. As the guys have said - definitely use the height locks and tie the bike down in case it loses pressure overnight. The tiedown is the most frustrating and messy part - I would've liked to have seen some positive device on the lift, rather than having to use fabric straps.

I also had a full size lift before I got this one. Takes up too much room and is not wheels free. The type that you propose is much more versatile and doesn't take up too much space as you can stand it on its end against a wall, in a corner somewhere.

Hope this helps.

Hi Robert

I worked out depth of pit, trench what-have-you, allowing for 1/4" steel plates for the steel wheels, to finish level with garage floor. My ramp is approx 5" off the ground at rest. Allow for rubble, concrete, as for making a drive, when digging g out.

Fun time when cement was mixed and started lining it with the breeze blocks to stop sides collapsing....I had forgotten timber to stop blocks falling in, until cement dried!!! And as with all the best projects, it was late evening.

Hope yours goes smoothly. Did I mention discovering the main water supply to the house?

Regards

Tim

Hi David

Good point about danger of falling / tripping as when the lift is raised, the front of pit is exposed. So approx 1/2" board with strengthening / locating pieces of 2" x 1" underneath.

Also, a couple of floorboards nailed with cross pieces to cover the gap at the side for the 2 levers.