Twin Leading Shoe front brake

I will make a quick reply to help, as no other comment has been made yet.

Five years ago I fitted a 2LS brake to my 1950 plunger ES2 and I used a full width alloy front hub, with the steel insert for the braking surface. I was left with the firm impression, after reading around, that this is the only hub that will work with the 2LS plate.

If you do find a hub, and get it laced to a rim, my advice is to have the braking surface skimmed in the built wheel. Mine had barely a few thou runout but it made the braking awful. Once skimmed in a milling machine it was perfect.

The bolt up hub uses a 'dustbin lid' brake plate. This was discontinued in 1957, when we now have the curved brake plate and the full width ally hub with its single leading shoe used right through till 1970 when the twin LS was introduced for the Commando in the same brake drum. The SLS and the TLS will not fit in the bolt up hub. Perhaps you people should read the Dommi Service Notes! There is also an issue with the brake cables, inner/outer change and cable adjusters on the brake plate, the threads change.
Have fun.

Geoff...Alan must be having a bad day!  Not a lot of people answered because probably not a lot of people have tried a Commando brake in the earlier hubs.  The Dommie Service Notes have lots of useful stuff and is worth browsing.  My guess is the brake shoe width might have changed...Service Notes will confirm.
If you do change from SLS to TLS on the full width hub, be aware that Commando brake cable is probably too long.  The brake cable anchor thread is different but since cable and brake are changing at the same time that won't concern you.
Last time I changed TLS brake shoes I set up the length of the link rod on the bench so both shoes started to lift with their cams at the same moment.  It tool a while to bed in. Mine tends to snatch hard if it's been left unused for a while.  I have to ride off slowly on straight road and feather the brake until it stops squeaking.  Once bedded in, it's never adjusted again and is a good brake.
Some say you should skim the drum.  I don't like permanently reducing the remaining service life of anything and I would wait and see if you find it a problem.  Norton drums are pretty stiff and not easily pulled out of shape.
Pictures?  And welcome to the Club.
 

Geoffrey.
               It is good to have you amongst us members of the most knowledgable site for all of the Norton range due to the different characters who impart their wisdom to us less informed than they are.
I am sure that you should not read too much into any perceived slight within the comments as it is so easy to be misunderstood without knowing who it is responding in these forums.
Most of us, if not all are giving free information to help keep our models running as best we can and not in the slightest meaning to demean anyone in the process.
Having said that please keep us updated with any progress you make with your query.
Rgds.