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Timing 1936 Model 18

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I've just refitted my Magdyno after a professional refurb. and am timing the machine. It ran before the refurb. but only just.

Is there an exact optimal setting for ignition timing or is it more a range?

The various sources for a machine of this year differ... W. C. Haycraft says 3/4 in. or 42 deg. BTDC but E. M. Franks says 5/8th as does the Norton Maintenance Manual and Instruction Book. Mike Pemberton in his excellent video on singles uses 38 deg. Maybe all are right even with different machines of the same type and do such minor differences matter in an 80 year old tourer?

Anyway, I've timed mine to 42 deg BTDC but it's dead as a dodo. Plenty of spark but no life. What's the best way to check that you are setting the points to open on the right revolution where you have the head and valve gear all in place?

I also took a look at the valve timing and although the timing cogs have been marked and match up, I can't match to the recommended settings if I track the valve movements through the Otto cycle. Is there an easy way of doing this? I don't want to start changing it unless I'm sure it's wrong. With the head on and the valve gear in place it's quite difficult to accurately check.

Just as an aside, on valve timing, Haycraft and Franks agree on 1/4 in. BTDC for the inlet opening and 1/4 in. ATDC for exhaust closing. The Maintenance Manual says 5/16th for both. So that's clear then...

I've retreated confused from the shed.. any helpful words of experience greatly appreciated...

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The difference between 38 and 42 is too small to matter. If it were mine i'd set it at 3 /4 btdc and mark a paint line at 5/8. You can then easily retard from the more advanced setting but if it is set a bit retarded you cannot do anything about it on the road. With the big long stroke single cylinder the piston drop is good enough.

Are you sure you are timing at full advance?

It should be a brisk performer!

Regarding valve timing... Both of the settings you describe are symmetrical so they amount to the same thing. Good luck!t

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Hi John,

Getting the timing spot-on is dependant on the compression ratio and the fuel you are using. There have been a couple of threads on timing pre war engines over the last 2 or 3 months so sorry if I am repeating myself. If your mag is the original it will betight wire advance. So to set the timing it is best to use a degree disc, but you can measure it through the plug hole if you can get an exact measurement. With a disc you will need to remove the primary chain cover and fit the disc between the engine sprocket and its nut. Find TDC through the plug hole and fix a pointer next to the discso it readszero degrees. Make sure you are on the firing stroke by checking both valves are closed. Next pull the advance/retard lever back as far as possible and make sure it stays tight. Turn the engine backwards at least 45 degrees then turn the mag anti-clockwise (viewed from the points end) so the points are just opening (a cigarette paper is the norm to measure this) and then drift the mag sprocket home. This should hold tight while you tighten the nut. If you measure the advance through the plug hole 45 degrees equals 5/8ths inch. AsDavid says you can go more and adjust the lever for best results.

While you have the disc set up you can check the valve timing. With open valves this is quite easy as you can put a feeler gauge between valve and tappet and get an accurate reading. You will find it difficult to get the timing exact because of the design but a couple of degrees either way will be O.K. You should be looking for around 25/25 degrees overlap and a general rule of thumb is the smaller the overlap (20/20) the more flexible low speed running will be, and a larger overlap (30/30) will give better top end performance. With standard cams anything outside of these the engine willstruggle. After setting all the above fit a new plug as an old one can fail under compression. Let us know how you get on.

Regards, Richard.

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If you decide to check the ignition timing via the plug hole, John, make sure you use a measuring device thin enough to go in nearly vertically as the plug hole is at about 50deg to the horizontal which will affect your measurement. 5/8" at 50deg is about 15/32" vertically.

Conversely 5/8"vertically is about 13/16" at 50deg.

Clear as mud!

George

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To be sure you're on the compression TDC the pushrods should both be free to rotate. Also, if you put your thumb over the plug hole & rotate the engine forwards you'll feel the compression.

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Today I confirmed that I do have a tight wire advance/retard, ensured I was on the right stroke with both valves closed, retimed to 45 deg. and it started pretty easily and ran well. Had to leave it there but am looking forward to giving it a proper test on the road... Thanks for all your help.... much appreciated.

 


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